PLANTING 



PLANTING 



20*7 



pit like this has always been used in the Arnold Arbo- 

 retum for wintering seedlings, rooted cuttings and 

 grafts, young stock grown in flats but too delicate for 

 the open ground. The arrangement of shelves shown 

 in the diagram gives storage to large numbers of these 

 small plants. 



3040. A durable storing pit or cellar for very large plants. 



In Fig. 3046 is shown a small plant-cellar, more ex- 

 pensive but with better capacity for large plants. It 

 should run north and south, and, excepting the glass 

 roof, is wholly below ground, and consequently extremely 

 well protected against frost. The door is at either 

 end or side. By taking advantage of sloping ground it is 

 possible to enter on the ground-floor level, which is 

 important when large plants in tubs must be handled. 

 In such cases a concrete floor may be built. The moni- 

 tor roof provides plenty of light and ventilation; wooden 

 shutters cover the glass in cold weather. This form of 



Eit is not only well adapted to plants, but also is excel- 

 >nt for storing fruits and also brussels sprouts, celery, 

 and cauliflower until Christmas. The forms of buildings 

 larger than those above described vary much with 

 different circumstances. Sometimes the cellar of a 

 stable, tool-house, or other outbuilding can be utilized. 

 The chief consideration is protection against frost, but 

 provision must be made for thorough ventilation, and 

 against a too high temperature in the autumn and 

 early spring. It is because it is hardly possible to pro- 

 vide for these matters that dwelling-house cellars do not 

 make good pits; they cannot be sufficiently ventilated 

 to keep the temperature low enough except in the mid- 

 dle of winter. Growth is incited and cannot be main- 

 tained owing to lack of light. 



Owing to their position, pits cannot well be made of 

 wood, plank and cedar posts lasting from 4 to 6 years 

 only. For large pits, stone and brick are most eco- 

 nomical for walls and ceilings; for small ones concrete 

 probably makes the cheapest and best wall; hollow tile 

 might be used. At the Bussey Institution the concrete 

 walls of several small pits have stood 15 to 20 years 

 without showing any sign of deterioration. 



An excavation of the required dimensions is made, 

 with due allowance for the walls. Inside the excavation 

 a plank molding-frame is built at the proper distance; 

 viz., the thickness of the walls, from the walls of earth 

 which should have been cut as true as possible. This 

 frame, which should also be true and plumb, is carried 

 to the required height for the inside face of wall and 

 another frame is made at the proper distance on the 

 surface of the ground, the inner face of which will be 

 the outside face of the completed wall. These frames 

 must be well braced; they carry a heavy load until the 

 cement hardens. It is not necessary to make a complete 

 frame for the whole pit at once; one end and a half of 

 both sides can be built first, and the same frame re- 

 versed will serve for the remainder. Use a good quality 



Portland cement mixed one part of cement to two of 

 sand with four or five parts broken stone or gravel 

 which should not be larger than an egg; for floors the 

 broken stone or gravel may be increased to seven or 

 eight parts. The whole should be completely and quite 

 carefully blended with hoe or shovel until each stone is 

 coated. Throw this mass into the space between the 

 molding-frame and earth wall and settle compactly 

 with a rammer. It is not advisable to mix more than 

 a barrel at once, nor so much as this unless at least six 

 men are employed. Continuous batches are made until 

 the work is finished. When the top layers are going in, 

 insert %-inch iron bolts 6 to 8 inches long at intervals 

 of 6 feet. These secure the wooden sills. In warm dry 

 weather the frames can be removed within twenty- 

 four hours or less, but first examine carefully the con- 

 dition of the concrete. After removal, smooth off any 

 roughness and grout in with a whitewash brush a coat 

 of portland cement mixed with water, but without 

 sand, thus obtaining a good color and a more homo- 

 geneous surface. For several days the work should be 

 shaded and occasionally sprinkled with the hose. Do 

 not attach the woodwork until the concrete is fully 

 hardened. One and one-half barrels of cement make 

 about 1 cubic yard of concrete, that costs, in place, 

 between five and six dollars, somewhat less if the cost 

 of labor, sand, and gravel is moderate. Build in June 

 or July, so that the concrete will be thoroughly dry 

 before frost. 



The construction of a brick roof is shown in Fig. 3046. 

 Concrete could also be used. A good grade hotbed sash 

 make the best glass roof. All sills, cross-bars, and the 

 like, should be made of cypress and painted. The wood- 

 work must be made strong to endure the continual 

 exposures. It is false economy to stint in quantity or 

 quality. In cellars for nursery stock, a comparatively 

 small amount of light is required, and the low roof is 

 boarded in and shingled, building-paper being used. 

 Planks may be substituted for boards, or the roof may 

 be double. 



Sand or gravel, 1 foot deep, makes the best floor, or 

 half sand and half loam where plants are to be 

 heeled-in. A concrete floor should be used only where 

 the drainage is absolutely perfect. 



The sides and ends should be banked with leaves or 

 other material. (See Fig. 3039). In the vicinity of Boston 

 this should be done about November 15. The same cov- 

 ering can also be given to low roofs. The glass is pro- 

 tected by mats and shutters, much as in ordinary hotbeds. 

 It is a good plan to have on hand an extra supply of dry 

 meadow hay to give additional shelter in zero weather. 



3041. A doorway in Fig. 3040. 



