2688 



PLANTING 



PLANTING 



Pits like those shown in Figs. 3043 and 3045, like 

 greenhouses, should carry more than one "crop." In 

 early autumn they hold chrysanthemums, carnations, 

 stevias, and the like; next Rhododendron (Azalea) indica, 

 Cytisus canariensis, heaths, and the like, some of whicn 

 remain for the winter, while others are replaced by 



- 



3042. Winter protection. Plants carried over winter in a living 

 condition in an unheated glasshouse. 



hardy shrubs, bulbs, and other plants for forcing. For 

 spring and summer use, see above. In eastern Massa- 

 chusetts gardeners begin to use them in September, but 

 the final storage sometimes is not finished until Christ- 

 mas. The longer the plants can be kept in the open air 

 the better fitted they are for then- winter quarters. 



In the care of pits, watering and ventilation are of 

 prime importance. When first housed the plants should 

 be well watered, and, if this is carefully done, it will 

 often be found that no further water is required for 

 plants in tubs and large pots (10 inches or more). This 

 also is true of heeled-in stock. Everything, however, 

 should be so arranged that inspection is easy, and 

 water should be given when necessary. Plants on the 

 shelves, particularly in small pots (4-inch), will go dry 

 oftener than those placed on the gravel floor. It is best 

 to water on bright days, when the sashes can be removed. 

 The great difficulty in keeping plants in good 

 condition is owing to the condensation of moisture 

 within the pits at times when it is impossible to open 

 them on account of severe weather; therefore no more 

 water should be given than is absolutely needed. As 

 long as the weather permits, keep the sashes off or the 

 windows open night and day, and afterward open up 

 whenever possible. On sunny days ventilate whenever 

 the thermometer registers over 20 F., but do not begin 

 until the sun strikes the frames, and shut off early in 

 the afternoon. On mild days, with the mercury above 

 freezing, remove the sashes entirely. This is the best 

 way to get rid of the moisture-laden air, and is essential 

 for keeping evergreen plants with soft foliage in good 



condition. To 

 change the air 

 in large cellars 

 is more trou- 

 blesome; here 

 it is advisable 

 to build an 

 open fireplace 

 in which a 

 brisk fire may 

 be kindled on 

 mild days 

 when all win- 



3043. One of the simplest and least expen- dows <l an be 

 sive forms of cold pit for small and medium- unclosed, thus 

 sized plants. obtaining a 



better circulation than is otherwise possible. Some- 

 tunes these large cellars have a line of hot-water pipes 

 or other means of heating, by which not only is better 

 ventilation secured but also additional protection in 

 severe weather. 



An unheated greenhouse (Fig. 3042) can sometimes 

 be used advantageously, not only for protection but, if 

 it is warm enough, for growing plants in spring and 

 autumn, and to a certain extent in winter. It is really a 

 pit 5 or 6 feet deep built below ground and attached on 

 the south side to some building already on the place. 

 It might not be satisfactory for the extreme North but 

 in southern New England and the middle states it is 

 a great help: in European gardens it is sometimes 

 called an alpine house, or, if it is larger and better 

 built, a winter-garden. Give a southern exposure and 

 have it so arranged that the floor is on the same or 

 nearly the same level as the cellar floor; if this cellar 

 is heated, so much the better. The cellar will be con- 

 venient for various operations, also for storing soil and 

 tools; water should be handy. A door between it and 

 the cellar is a necessity, but there need be none on the 

 outside. The form of roof can be either lean-to or 

 three-quarters span; in the latter form boarding, 

 double if possible, can cover the roof next the house. 

 Use double glazed glass and provide plenty of ventila- 

 tion by glass or board shutters; this last is most 

 important. The dimensions should not be less than 10 

 feet in width and may be more; the length can be any 

 multiple of three so that hotbed sash can be used for 

 the roof. The interior layout should be a walk, not 

 over 2 feet wide, so placed that convenient and eco- 

 nomical access is given the plants. These may be grown 

 on benches, either solid or of boards, or planted in the 

 earth. The great advantage of such a structure is that 

 the plants can be handled from the inside in all weathers. 

 The hardier plants, like wallflowers and violets, bloom 

 all winter; in autumn it can be used to prolong the 

 chrysanthemum season, in spring it is a good place for 

 starting seedlings, e. g., lettuce, cauliflower, and cab- 

 bage, and, if warm enough, an inside hotbed can be 



3044. A well-ventilated cold pit, roomier than the preceding 

 and not much more expensive. 



made to start tomatoes, peppers and eggplant also; 

 in it most of the plants named below can be stored or 

 grown. Many plants of doubtful hardiness or of small 

 size can be wintered and tried out. It is much simpler 

 to handle than pits or frames, largely on account of 

 easy access and the storage capabilities of the cellar. 

 It makes a good place to store plants for forcing and 

 will even flower well tulips, hyacinths, and narcissi. A 

 three-quarters span 12 by 15 feet with 8 feet of glass 

 roof, in southern Massachusetts, well protected in all 

 ways, has recorded on a self-registering thermometer 

 only 24 F. in the last three years, outside temperature 

 going as low as 10 F. 



Following is a list of plants that may be wintered in 

 pits and frames with satisfactory results. The list is 

 made for the neighborhood of Boston. 



