2934 



RHODODENDRON 



RHODODENDRON 



be established in pots in spring and grafted under glass 

 in autumn and early winter, using the veneer-graft (see 

 Grafting, page 1362, Vol. III). Graft as near the root as 

 possible and plant the worked parts below the surface 

 when planting in the nursery or permanently. With 

 these precautions, and an extra covering of leaves until 

 the plant is established on its own roots, the defect of 

 tenderness in this stock can be overcome. Nurse care- 

 fully the young grafted plants in frames until of suffi- 

 cient size to be planted in the nursery rows. Figs. 3380 

 and 3381 illustrate two common methods of grafting 

 rhododendrons and other woody plants. The details of 

 the unions are shown in Fig. 3380, and the completed 

 work in Fig. 3381. Statements are made that cuttings 

 of half-ripened wood will strike, but it is not likely that 

 this will ever prove a practical method of propagating 

 R. maximum or the R. catawbiense hybrids ; it might be 

 worth while to experiment with wood grown under glass, 



3381. Saddle-graft at A; veneer-graft at B. (For comparison with Fig. 3380.) 



particularly with some of the smaller-leaved evergreen 

 kinds. 



As to cultivation, the point on which successful 



of humus. To nearly pure peat an admixture of sand 

 is beneficial ; the essential point is that all soils for these 

 plants must be fine. The beds should be prepared in 

 autumn and left to settle all winter, due allowance 

 being made for shrinking. In spring level off to the 

 grade of the adjacent land and do not leave "rounded 

 up." A bed higher at the center than at the sides per- 

 haps makes a better display of the plants, but is more 

 likely to dry up and does not catch all the water pos- 

 sible from occasional showers. It is generally conceded 

 that lime soils and manures containing lime, e.g., wood- 

 ashes and bone-meal, are injurious to rhododendrons; 

 in limestone regions it is undoubtedly advisable to 

 substitute, for the natural soil, others which are free 

 from this objectionable element. 



Plant rhododendrons in spring when weather is set- 

 tled and the March winds have passed. If the ball of 

 roots is dry, soak well before setting. Plant closely, 

 so that the tops are only 10 to 12 

 inches apart and pay particular 

 attention to "facing" them, i. e., 

 see that the best side is facing the 

 most important point of view, and 

 that all are faced alike. Grafted 

 plants should, if possible, have the 

 worked portion below the surface. 

 Do not plant in autumn. Plants 

 grown on the premises may be trans- 

 planted in favorable weather in 

 summer if great care is taken to 

 prevent the roots suffering from 

 dryness. In planning the original 

 border it is well to leave room for ex- 

 tension: when planted, as described 

 above, the beds can be enlarged at 

 intervals of four or five years, or 

 new beds made from the old stock. 

 Place the beds so that the glare of the 

 midday sun is screened both sum- 

 mer and winter, and avoid situations 

 where there is any interference, 

 owing to trees or buildings, with a 

 naturally good condition of the soil 

 in respect to moisture. If permanent 

 protection is desired, use conifers, 

 particularly the hemlock, in prefer- 

 ence to deciduous trees. Good posi- 

 tions for beds may be found along 

 the edges of ponds and streams, and in reclaimed mead- 

 ows, with their cool moist soil, but keep aloof from any 

 ground where the water collects in summer or winter. 



p iiiv/u ou^^cooiua uuuuu wiic c tue watci uuiicuts in suuiiiier ur winter. 



American growers of ^rhododendrons now insist^ is_ that Beds, or even single plants, if sizable, may be intro- 

 duced into open spaces in woodlands if the precau- 

 tions noted above are observed and plenty of air and 

 light are obtainable. It is somewhat difficult to com- 

 bine rhododendrons and many deciduous shrubs, among 

 which are the azaleas, their near relatives. A back- 

 ground of dark green conifers seems most appropriate. 

 Mountain laurels, Pieris floribunda, Leucothoe Catesbsei, 

 and Daphne Cneorum are proper companions, but at 

 times these seem better apart. Our native lilies, L. 

 superbum and L. canadense, are good associates and 

 thrive under the same conditions. In hot, dry weather 



the water-supply shall be sufficient. (See H. H. Hun- 

 newell, in G.F. 3:201, 1890.) To effect this: (1) make 

 the soil deep and fine, using materials like peat, leaf- 

 mold, well-rotted manure and yellow loam, all of which 

 are retentive of moisture; (2) plant in masses, at any 

 rate while young, so that they may protect each other 

 and prevent evaporation; (3) give the bed a northern 

 exposure or a situation where the force of the midday 

 sun is broken; (4) do not plant under or near trees like 

 elm, oak, or maple, which make undue inroads on the 

 natural water-supply, nor so near buildings that the 



the border to the depth of the soil, but at comparatively 

 infrequent intervals, once a week or so. The bed should 

 also be mulched with leaves, or other material, to pre- 



border is sheltered from rain or overdrained by cellar water should be given, not daily in driblets, as lawns are 

 walls; (5) mulch with leaves summer and winter, pro- sprinkled, but in quantity, enough at one time to soak 

 tect from wind and sun with evergreen boughs in win- 

 ter and in summer give heavy watering whenever the 

 weather is excessively hot or dry. 



The planting-bed should be prepared by excavating vent evaporation; grass" clipping are 'serviceable, *but 

 to the desired dimensions and at least 3 feet deep. The should not be used in large quantities at any one time 

 poor material should be discarded, but the good soil 

 can be replaced, adding enough peat and the like (see 

 above) to make good that which was rejected; all should 

 be thoroughly and carefully mixed. Peat, although excel- 



or else they will heat. Leaves make good winter 

 protection, which should be given just before cold 

 weather, in eastern Massachusetts, between Thanks- 

 giving and Christmas. Let the bed be covered to the 



lent, is not necessary. Yellow loam or hazel loam, if not depth of 10 to 12 inches, well worked in beneath the 

 too sandy, is equally good and is improved by additions foliage but not over it. In spring dig as much as pos- 



