ROSE 



ROSE 



3007 



than on their own roots, and some are utterly worthless 

 unless budded, notably, Reine Marie Henriette and Vis- 

 countess Folkestone, both charming roses when well 

 grown. The budded plants are mostly grown in Europe, 

 taken up as soon as the wood is ripened in the autumn, 

 and shipped to us in the dormant state in time for plant- 

 ing in the latitude of Philadelphia before the ground is 

 frozen. They are usually received in such excellent con- 

 dition that rarely one in a hundred of the hardy sorts 



fails to make a good 

 growth, and a fair bloom 

 the following season. 



With the tender sorts, 

 dormant planting out-of- 

 doors in late autumn is 

 attended \vith much risk, 

 because of the inability 

 of these plants to endure 

 the rigors of our winters 

 before becoming estab- 

 1 i s h e d . Consequently 

 they need much more 

 protection than the 

 hardy varieties. It is 



3470. Flower of the Manetti really much better to 

 rose, used as a stock. defer the planting until 



the early spring, if the 



plants can be safely housed through the winter. After 

 they have become successfully established their safety 

 is assured, and they will repay in vigor and excellence 

 the extra work expended on them. Few amateurs, 

 however, have the conveniences for caring for a num- 

 ber of plants under cover in the winter. Therefore they 

 must take the risk of planting in the autumn or 

 cultivate plants grown on their own roots. (For 

 further discussions of budded and grafted roses, see 

 page 3005.) 



Far budded roses, holes at least 1 foot deep and 15 inches 

 wide should be made for each plant, the collar or point 

 where the bud was inserted and from which the new 

 growth starts placed 2 inches beneath the surface of 

 the soil, the roots spread out and downward (care being 

 taken that no roots cross each other), and all roots 

 covered with fine soil free from lumps of manure. (Fig. 

 3471.) Manure should never be placed in actual con- 

 tact with the roots, but near at hand, where the new 

 feeding roots can easily reach when growth begins. 

 The remaining soil should then be packed in firmly, the 

 surface leveled and covered with about 3 inches of coarse 

 litter and manure, and the long wood cut back to about 

 18 inches to prevent the plant being whipped and loos- 

 ened by high winds. This extra wood is left to encourage 

 root-action in the spring and should be cut back to three 

 or four eyes as soon as they can be detected when push- 

 ing out. Always cut above and close to a strong out- 

 side bud, without injuring it, to develop an open and 

 free head, this admitting light and air. If the uppermost 

 bud is on the inside surface of the shoot, the new growth 

 will be directed inward, dwarfing and hampering the 

 plant and preventing proper development. The deep 

 planting above described is necessary to prevent suckers 

 from being thrown out by the roots, as these will 

 speedily choke and kill the less vigorous wood which we 

 are endeavoring to develop. From the writer's experi- 

 ence, the only objection to budded plants is this danger 

 of suckering from the roots; therefore no one should 

 attempt to cultivate budded roses who cannot dis- 

 tinguish the brier should it appear, or who is too care- 

 less to dig down at once and cut the wild shoot clean off 

 at the root, rubbing it smooth to prevent its starting 

 again. A very little experience will enable anyone to 

 distinguish the brier. The canes are covered with 

 minute thorns and bear seven leaflets, instead of the 

 usual five. Should any doubt remain, follow the shoot 

 down through the ground and if it starts below the 

 collar, it is a brier; remove it. These wild shoots 



usually appear a few inches outside of the regular 

 growth, rarely inside; consequently there is little diffi- 

 culty in detecting and removing them. 



Roses from pots should be planted as soon as the 

 spring weather has fairly settled and all danger of 

 frost is over, that the plants may be firmly established 

 before the heat of summer. Roses planted late in the 

 season never do well. The holes need be made only a 

 little larger than the pot in which the plant in growing. 

 Choose a cloudy day, or the time just before a rain, 

 or late in the afternoon, and, after making the hole, 

 knock the pot off by inverting the plant and striking 

 the edge sharply on a firm object (the handle of a 

 spade which has been firmly placed in the ground in an 

 upright position will answer well). Press the ball of 

 earth firmly between the hands to loosen the earth with- 

 out injuring the roots, fill the hole with water, insert the 

 plant a very little deeper than it stood in the pot, fill 

 in with soil and pack the earth around it firmly. Pot- 

 grown plants always require staking if the varieties are 

 of upright growth. 



Tea roses make a charming effect, where the climate 

 is too cold to winter them in the open successfully, by 

 planting in a be"d 6 feet in width, the rows 1 foot from 

 the edge and 2 feet apart, and the bed of any desired 

 length or any multiple of 3 feet. A sectional frame made 

 from tongued and grooved fence-boards, 2% feet in 

 height at the back and 2 feet in front, facing east or 

 southeast and fastened together with hooks and eyes or 

 screws, the whole covered with ordinary coldframe sash 

 (6 by 3 feet), will preserve the tender varieties through 

 a severe winter. The sash should be freely opened when 

 the temperature is above 30 F. and air admitted during 

 the day when it is 10 or 15 lower. Always close before 

 sunset and open as soon as the sun shines each morning. 

 Opening the sash to keep the plants cool and prevent 

 growth is just as essential as covering to protect from 

 cold, if abundance of flowers is desired. A few days' 

 neglect in opening the sash when the temperature is 

 above 30 wUl destroy most of the buds for the coming 

 June, as they will be forced 

 out, and one cold night will 

 kill them. Protect from 

 rains or snows, and dp not 

 water. Sufficient moisture 

 reaches the roots from the 

 outside to keep the plants in 

 a healthy condition. Teas 

 may be grown successfully 

 in such a bed for many 

 years, and give hundreds of 

 fine blooms from May until 

 November and remain so 

 vigorous that many of the 

 new shoots will be Yi inch 

 in diameter. 



Climbing roses make a 

 very effective background, 

 and if trained on a high wire 

 fence give a beautiful dis- 

 play. The strong-growing 

 varieties should be planted 

 8 feet apart and will each 

 easily fill a trellis 9 feet high. 

 They also look well trained 

 on the house porch, but are 



much more likely to be attacked by insect enemies than 

 when planted in the open. Roses grown on porches are 

 usually attacked by aphides and slugs, the leaves 

 becoming riddled and skeletonized, which only infre- 

 quently occurs when they are planted in the open 

 sunny garden. If roses are wanted around porches, the 

 MicrophylUe, white and pink, and the Crimson Rambler 

 can be safely planted, as they are not attacked by the 

 slug; but the blooms do not compare favorably with 

 many other roses of their habit. The other varieties 



3471. A typical dormant 

 rose as it should be planted. 

 A, point where bud was in- 

 serted. 



