STRAWBERRY 



STRAWBERRY 



3269 



foliage should be chosen. Such varieties are generally 

 to be relied upon. In choosing varieties one should 

 secure those which do well in one's vicinity, for in some 

 cases quality in a variety depends to a large degree on 

 environment. 



It is always best to plant at least three varieties so 

 that a long season will be assured. While it is impossible 

 not to have varieties overlap, an abundance at one time 

 during the season is no detriment, for at this time 

 preserving may be done and there are so many ways 

 in which strawberries can be used that an abundance 

 should be sought. 



The strawberry is bisexual in its bloom and therefore 

 it will be necessary either to choose varieties which have 

 perfect flowers or have those of both sexes in order to 

 insure perfect pollination. Sex in strawberries does not 

 seem to have any direct bearing on quality or produc- 

 tiveness, although there is a common fallacy that pis- 

 tillate varieties are most productive and staminate 

 varieties of the better quality. 



In the matted-row system of planting, the plants are 

 set 4 by 2 feet apart, and allowed to run so that a row 

 from 2 to 3 feet wide is formed. This is probably the 

 easiest way in which to grow the strawberry. There is 

 great danger, however, that too many plants will be 

 allowed to grow in this system and, in consequence, 

 through overcrowding, the fruit will be small and rather 

 poor. In this system plants should 

 not be allowed to set closer than 6 

 inches apart and all runners which 

 are made beyond those necessary to 

 cover the ground when at this dis- 

 tance should be removed. 



In the hedge- or narrow matted- 

 row system, set plants 3 by 2 feet 

 apart, and allow each to make four 

 or six new plants, which are set so 

 that there are practical!} 7 three 

 separate rows with the plants in 

 the row about 8 to 10 inches apart. 

 All other plants and runners are 

 removed. ^'A "p 



In the hill system, the plants are ^f* 4 * 



set in various ways, first in straight '**.*? 



rows, 3 feet apart, and the plants in 

 the row from 12 to 20 inches apart, 

 or plants are set in beds 14 by 14 

 inches or 18 by 18 inches or even 

 20 by 20 inches apart, and from 

 three to four rows are set, depend- 

 ing on the variety. In this system 

 all of the runners are removed from 

 the parent plant and the bed is gen- 

 erally allowed to remain for about three years. 



To obtain strawberries earlier they may be raised in 

 frames as other perennials are grown. The plants are 

 set in August or September about a foot apart in rich 

 garden loam and given good cultivation. The frames 

 should not be more than 8 niches deep. Hill culture is 

 practised in this system and plants are protected during 

 the winter by a light mulch. Glass frames are put on 

 early in March, careful cultivation given, plenty of 

 air and careful watering. This method will advance the 

 crop two to three weeks ahead of the outdoor crop. 

 Such varieties as are suitable for greenhouse culture 

 should be used for growing in frames. 



Growing strawberries in a barrel, or rather on a barrel, 

 is practised by those who have very limited space, ana 

 while there are many drawbacks to doing this success- 

 fully it can be accomplished with care. A clean cider bar- 

 rel should be used and several 1-inch holes bored in the 

 center of the bottom and a ring of 1 H-inch holes about 

 8 inches apart around the barrel with a space of 8 inches 

 between the rows of holes. If the holes are started near 

 the bottom, it will be possible to get three rows of holes 

 and about eight holes around the barrel. Good strong 



pot-grown plants should be secured and a good compost 

 of garden loam. Place in the barrel and over the holes 

 cut in the center of the bottom a piece of 6-inch drain- 

 tile about a foot long, filling the center of the tile with 

 coarse gravel or small stones. Put the roots of the 

 plants into the IK-uich holes in the sides of the barrel 

 and fill the barrel with the compost, adding pieces of 

 tile to that in the center as the barrel is filled so that 

 the drain-pipe comes up to the top of the barrel. A row 

 of plants may be planted on the top of the barrel so 

 that sides and top are covered. Water-ing should be 

 done through the drain-pipe and if the coarse material 

 used inside the drain is satisfactory, the plants will take 

 up about the proper amount of water before it ah 1 passes 

 through the barrel. The barrel should be carefully 

 protected in winter by covering with straw and pine 

 branches and the top protected so that excessive rain 

 will not get in; elevating the barrel on stones will help 

 the drainage. 



Having decided upon the method or system of grow- 

 ing strawberries, the season for 

 : : - .7 planting should be the next consid- 

 eration. As a rule the early spring, 

 from April 1 to May 10, is the best 

 time to plant in the North, although 

 in many gardens which have to 

 economize space, August and Sep- 

 tember planting is made necessary, 



3730. Brandywine strawberry. 



as the strawberry has to follow some of the other 

 early crops, as peas, beans, lettuce, and the like. For 

 August or September setting, pot-grown plants are 

 better than the runner plants unless one can take runner 

 plants directly from one's own bed and transplant them 

 under favorable weather conditions. 



To obtain the best pot-grown plants, the runners of 

 the current season's growth should be used, as these 

 make better plants than those of last season's growth 

 which have been placed in cold storage and potted after 

 then- natural season of planting has gone by. If layer 

 plants are used in spring, great care should be taken 

 in planting so that the plants may be assured of a good 

 start. Remove practically all of the foliage and cut 

 back the roots at least one-half. If the ground has been 

 prepared carefully the hand may be used in making the 

 hole for the roots, but in stony ground it is best to use 

 a trowel. Be sure that the crown of the plant is not set 

 either too deep or too far above ground. The crown 

 should be on a level with the surface of the soil. When 

 setting, spread the roots out fan-shape and be sure to 

 press the soil firmly about them. Be sure that the rows 

 are straight. Various devices are used on commercial 



