3396 



TULIPA 



TULIPA 



the original form from which this strain might have 

 been developed. Many of the garden varieties of today 

 exhibit more or less laciniation, so that it is probable 

 that "Parrot" strains might be developed from them 

 by simple selection. 



Double tulips seem to have made their appearance at 

 an early date. In "Hortus Eystettensis" (1613), there 

 are four forms figured, one of which, at least, seems to 

 have been almost wholly made up of bracts, as it is 

 shown entirely green and is described as being "wholly 

 herbaceous and green." The other three there figured 



3867. A pan of Murillo tulips, one of the few double varieties 

 that are really desirable. ( X ]>i) 



are: one red, one yellow, and the other white with 

 maroon borders. Solms-Laubach places the advent 

 of double tulips at a much later date, 1665, and gives 

 as the first authentic record the account of "Tidipa 

 lutea centifolia, le monstre jaune double." Flowers with 

 as many as 200 petals are mentioned. A double form of 

 "T. serotina" was known in 1701, and at the beginning 

 of the nineteenth century a double form of T. sylves- 

 tris was described. 



Cultivation of the tulip. 



The tulip is one of the easiest plants to grow, but, 

 like other plants, it profits by extra care. In any ordi- 

 nary soil it gives excellent satisfaction, if good bulbs 

 are secured in the first place. 



For outdoor cultivation for spring bloom the bulbs 

 should be set in September to December in the latitude 

 of New York. They should be planted before hard 

 freezing weather comes. The soil should be a sandy 

 loam, well worked to a depth of at least 12 inches for 

 best results, and enriched with leaf-mold and well- 

 rotted cow-manure. Fresh manure of any kind should 

 never be used near bulbs of any sort. On heavier soils 

 tulips can be successfully raised if extra care is given to 

 insure perfect drainage. Drainage is important under 

 all conditions. The bulbs will never prove satisfactory 

 in low wet situations, and if there is danger from stand- 

 ing water it is best to raise the beds several inches above 

 the surrounding ground. The production of large per- 

 fect flowers depends on a large supply of fibrous roots. 

 Size of bulbs is not so important: a large bulb cannot 

 offset a deficiency of roots. 



Plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep (to the bottom of 

 the bulbs) and 4 to 9 inches apart, depending on the 

 class or siz.e of the plants, the closer distances being 

 for the early single kinds and the wider distances for 

 the later and larger kinds. Care should be exercised 

 to place all the bulbs at the same depth, as otherwise 

 they will not all bloom at the same time. When the 

 ground begins to freeze, cover the beds with leaves, 

 dry ferest litter, or other light material. After danger 



of heavy frosts is past in spring the beds should be 

 uncovered, and if the work of preparation and planting 

 has been well done the tulips will require little or no 

 further care. In England many of the beds of choice 

 and delicate varieties of tulips are protected when in 

 flower from heavy rains and hot sun by means of light 

 cloth screens, and are thus kept in good condition for 

 some time. 



Tulips may remain in the ground several years if the 

 tops are not cut off and if the maturing leaves are not 

 smothered by other plants. In practice, however, the 

 best results are usually not secured in this country 

 after the bulbs have been in the ground two or three 

 years. The Darwin class seems to lack in constitution, 

 and the plants should be renewed every two years or so. 



In old-fashioned gardens, tulips often remain year 

 after year; but when the beds are needed for other flowers 

 in succession, the bulbs are lifted as soon as the flowers 

 are past and reset elsewhere until the plants mature 

 and the tops die down naturally. Then the bulbs are 

 taken up, sorted and dried, and stored in a cool dark 

 place until planting-time; or they may be planted at 

 once in the permanent quarters if the area is ready to 

 receive them. Even in borders and among shrubbery, 

 it is weir to take up the bulbs every two or three years 

 and sort out the small ones, replanting the remainder; 

 or, if they are weak, to discard all of them for new ones. 

 For the best bedding work, it is advisable to use strong 

 freshly imported stock each year. 



To make design-beds, choose bulbs of very uniform 

 size. Dig out the bed, removing all the earth a little 

 deeper than the bulbs are to be planted, then make a 

 thin layer of soft earth on which the bulbs may rest; 

 this surface should be stroked level and be at a uniform 

 depth. Then place the bulbs in the design and fill in 

 around them carefully by hand; then place the earth 

 back in the bed. 



For pot culture (winter and spring bloom), a mixture 

 of fine garden loam, two parts to one of well-rotted 

 manure (cow-manure composted for two years is best), 

 mixed with enough clean sand to make the mass easily 

 friable, is most suitable. If no loam is obtainable and 

 a heavier garden soil must be used, one part of the 

 latter will be sufficient, in which case the addition of an 

 equal proportion of leaf -mold will be advantageous. 

 From three to five bulbs, according to size, to a 5-inch 

 pot are effective. Deep pans are often used with good 

 effect; a 6-inch pan 

 may hold five or six 

 early singles, and 

 an 8-inch pan as 

 many as ten (Figs. 

 3867, 3868). Fill 

 the pots lightly and 

 press the bulbs into 

 the soil, thus bring- 

 ing the base in close 

 contact with the 

 soil-particles. Cover 

 the bulbs to the tip 

 and press the soil 

 firmly all around. 

 Water once freely 

 and cover the pots 

 entirely with soil, 

 leaves, or litter, so 

 that they will be 

 out of reach of 

 frost, or place them 

 in a dark cold (not 

 freezing) cellar or 

 room until the 

 bulbs have become 

 well rooted, which 



under ordinary 3868. Round-petaled tulips in a 5-inch 

 conditions will re- pot. (X 1 A) 



