3478 



VIOLET 



VIOLET 



3948. Neapolitan. 

 (XI) 



best. This should preferably be cut in the fall and com- 

 posted with well-decomposed stable-manure. Many 

 growers use cow-manure, but no particular advantage 

 has been observed in this material so far as the vigor of 

 the crop is concerned. It is more difficult to secure and 

 is not so easily handled; hence ordinary well-decom- 

 posed stable -manure is preferred. About one part 

 manure should be used to four parts of soil, and a little 

 extra work in thoroughly incorporating the manure with 

 the soil always pays well. Some of the best growers 

 make up the heaps by bringing the soil and manure 

 together by means of wheelbarrows and then mixing 

 by shoveling over the 

 pile, as is done for 

 concrete-mixing. 

 When there are large 

 quantities of soil to 

 be mixed, the haul- 

 ing can of course be 

 done with wagons or 

 carts. A one-horse 

 cart makes a very 

 convenient means of 

 bringing the mate- 

 rials together. Before 

 putting the soil into 

 the houses or frames 

 it should be turned 

 and mixed again and 

 for about every two or 

 three thousand plants 

 use a 200-pound bag 

 of powdered quick- 

 lime. The lime may 

 be sprinkled on the 

 heap from time to 

 time as the mixing takes place. 



For all practical purposes the commer- 

 cial cultivation of the violet is limited to 

 growing in houses except in the South and 

 far West, where for the most part they are 

 grown in the open or in coldframes. 

 There is still considerable growing done 

 in frames, but there are so many incon- 

 veniences involved in this work that most 

 of the frame culture has been abandoned 

 for the cheaper forms of houses. Gradu- 

 ally, also, the method of growing the plants 

 in the open field and later covering with 

 frames is being abandoned. The violet is 

 subject to so many diseases and troubles 

 which are materially influenced by weather 

 conditions that it is important to have 

 control over at least the moisture condi- 

 tions the greater part of the year. In 

 house culture the crop is preferably grown 

 in solid beds (Fig. 3950). Experience has 

 shown that better and more flowers are 

 secured by this method than by growing 

 on benches. Then, again, there is the 

 advantage of the long life of the solid beds 

 and the lessened expense of the general 

 work. Care should be taken not to have the beds too 

 wide, otherwise it will be difficult to reach all parts of 

 them from the walks. The best growers practise chang- 

 ing the soil each year. At least 5 inches of fresh soil 

 should be put in before the young plants are set out. 

 The time of planting varies somewhat in different 

 parts of the country. Usually the flowers are not much 

 in demand after the middle of April, so that in prac- 

 tically all the violet-growing sections preparations may 

 begin at this time for clearing the houses and getting 

 ready for the new crop. The plants, having been prop- 

 erly prepared, as will be described later, should be set 

 8 or 9 inches apart in rows 10 inches apart. This is the 

 distance for the doubles. For the singles they are usu- 



ally planted about 12 inches apart in the rows, the rows 

 being from 12 to 18 inches apart. Most of the single 

 varieties now under cultivation may be planted closer 

 than this, say from 10 to 12 inches apart. After the 

 plants are put out it is necessary that they should be 

 carefully watered and all weeds in the beds kept down. 

 It is desirable to keep the temperature as low as pos- 

 sible in summer. To this end the houses should be 

 shaded. It is desirable to give plenty of fresh air, but 

 care should be taken to have the top ventilators so 

 arranged that the plants may be protected from rain,. 

 The violet requires considerable water, but no very 

 rigid rules can be laid down as to the amount required. 

 Every effort should be put forth to keep the plants in 

 good growing condition without over-saturation of the 

 soil. Early in summer the runners will begin to appear 

 and these must be cut off as rapidly as the plants can 

 be gone over conveniently. The object is to secure a 

 good strong healthy compact plant and to induce 

 free growth at all times, as with such strong free- 

 growing plants developed by October 1 all the con- 

 ditions will be at hand for the production of long- 

 stemmed, good-colored flowers. 



The violet may be propagated in a number of ways. 

 One of the common practices is to divide the crown. 

 This is usually done in spring after the flowering 

 season is over. The plant is lifted and the soil shaken 

 off, and then it may be readily pulled apart and the 

 small plants either set in beds or flats. This method 

 has objections because a 

 great many plants or 

 crowns so separated are 

 hard and woody, and they 

 will refuse to grow into 

 good vigorous healthy 

 crowns. A second and 

 more desirable method is 

 carefully to select young 

 and vigorous offshoots and 

 root these in the ordinary 

 way in sand. Following 

 the second method the 

 young plants can be se- 

 cured from time to time 

 during the late winter 

 without disturbing the 

 main plants. If proper 

 care is exercised and good 

 selection made, another 

 good supply f stock may 

 be readily available early 

 in March, and selections 

 may be made from these 

 for the planting, which is 

 performed the latter part 

 of May. 



Comparatively little at- 

 tention has been given to 

 proper houses for violet- 

 culture. Almost any kind 

 of house is believed to be 

 suitable, hence the crop has 

 not had the advantages that more favored ones like the 

 rose and carnation have had. Any good type of well- 

 lighted, well-ventilated house will suffice. For begin- 

 ners and those who have not a large amount of capital 

 to invest, one of the most economical and satisfactory 

 houses is an ordinary even-span type, 12 feet wide. 

 The height of such house from the bottom of the walk to 

 the ridge is 7 feet. The height of the side from the top 

 of the plate to bottom of gutter is 20 inches. The walls 

 can be easily boarded up with rough lumber and then 

 covered with rustic siding. One walk 14 inches wide 

 is made through the center of the house. This gives 

 two beds, each 5 feet 5 inches wide. Such beds are a 

 little wide for conveniently reaching the plants from 



3949. Swanley. (XI) 



