WALKS 



WALKS 



3497 



center to center, well bedded in earth, and level with 

 the sod. 



Tanbark paths, grass-bordered, are a degree more 

 pronounced. The tanbark should be spread 2 inches 

 thick over a bottom of 6 to 12 inches of broken stone 

 or cinders. If the path is of such importance to the 



3974. A, Stepping-stones in the grass the simplest dry path in 

 the natural style. B, The same, conventionalized for the formal 

 style. 



design as to demand greater width, the character 

 should change, and gravel or crushed stone be used. 



For macadam paths (Fig. 3975) excavate 8 inches at 

 the sides, 6 inches in center, and lay 5 inches of stone 

 or "spawls" on edge across the path. Over this spread 

 2 inches of crushed stone the size of a hen's egg (1J4- 

 inch stone) and a sprinkling of clayish soil, and roll 

 firm, a hand roller being used. An inch of crushed 

 limestone or hard shale should then be spread and 

 rolled until a firm hard surface results. The walk 

 should be raised 1 inch at the center for each 2 feet 

 of width. These hard walks must be contained by bor- 

 ders of grass sod, boxwood, stone, brick, or cement 

 curb. The curb should stand only 1 inch above the 

 walk-surface; it should be 2H inches wide for a 4-foot 

 path and H m ^h wider for each added foot width of 

 the walk up to 4 inches, which is sufficient for a highway. 



Gravel paths appear well up to any width, but as they 

 are widened their color increases in design importance. 

 M'iny garden designers use red gravel only; others 

 prefer blue trappe rock; few use washed beach gravel 

 or other white surface material because of its glare. 

 This fault is a grievous one with respect to cement as 

 a walk material; it also seems too artificial and not 

 gardenesque. 



Brick in various colors and textures is an old and 

 valuable path material which meets the requirements 

 of color, texture, interest, drainage, and neatness, as 

 well as anything yet devised. The pattern of laying 

 should not be complicated to the degree of attracting 

 attention which should be bestowed on the garden 

 itself. In front of seats or steps, about a pool or a 



garden dial, it may be embellished by special design 

 or by tile introduced into the pattern. Usually the 

 patterns are three, or adaptation of those shown in 

 Fig. 3976. A tile effect can be secured by using extra- 

 wide joints, but glazed tile will be found too slippery 

 for out-of-door use. Brick walks should be laid over a 

 foundation of 16 inches of cinders or broken stone, for 

 drainage and to prevent heaving by frost. To lay 

 "dry," an inch of sand is spread 

 upon this foundation, the bricks 

 laid and afterward swept over 

 with sand until joints are filled. 

 If a cemented job is desired, 

 spread 3 inches of concrete upon 

 the "frostproof" foundation; lay 

 the brick upon a layer of cement 

 mortar spread above the concrete, 

 and pour the brick joints after- 

 ward with cement (one part), sand 

 (one part) ; scour the bricks with 

 muriatic acid, one part to ten of 

 water. 



Much may be said in favor of 

 stone paths. It is a material full 

 of interest and generally harmo- 

 nizes well in garden or lawn. The 

 stones, as a rule, should be larger 

 if the walk or terrace is wide or 

 long. They may be laid regularly 

 or irregularly (Fig. 3977) ; smooth 

 or rough of surface ; cemented 

 joints over foundations as for 

 bricks; or laid with grass joints. 

 These last are very gardenesque, d 

 particularly if the joints are 

 planted with low-lying perennials 

 like Sedum acre, Armeria vulgaris, 

 certain saxifragas, and Veronica 

 rupestris. Such a walk is not easy 

 to keep free of either snow or 

 heavy dew, so that it must not 

 be laid where service demands 

 dryness. 



In the English or natural land- 

 scape style, lawns and informal 



sod 



3975. Gravel or macadam walk. 



3976. Forms of 

 simple brick walks, a, 

 Basketry pattern; b. 

 straight herringbone ; 

 c, herringbone, cor- 

 ner cutting required 

 but effectiveness of 

 pattern increased ; d, 

 basket, with Roman (or 



gardens are made up of grass, extra-size) brick. 

 shrubs, trees, and vistas. Paths 

 are introduced for the sole purpose of giving easy 

 access to various points or objects of interest and 

 are not relevant, as in formal gardens, to the design. 

 On the other hand, it is easy to intercept and spoil 

 a vista, subdivide charming greensward, or mar a 

 graceful slope by introducing a walk. Considerable 

 study is required to lay out paths which will be 

 direct, serving the practical needs of the place without 

 interfering with esthetic considerations. Usually it is 

 best accomplished by keeping paths somewhat toward 

 boundaries, and consisting of graceful long curves 

 in harmony with the general rounded 

 outlines of foliage, foregrounds, and slopes 

 i n hillsides, rather than by more conven- 

 tj ona } straight lines, directed through cen- 

 ters. These paths must not seem circui- 

 tous or precipitous, however, and the in- 

 terest must be satisfying to the traveler 

 by presenting special vistas, close exami- 

 nation of interesting plantings, providing 

 good restful benches, passing through 

 arches or otherwise made interesting and 

 seemingly short. Paths of this character 

 must not be laid out in an unrelated sys- 

 tem nor built simply to break up lawns 

 and afford aimless strolls. It should not 

 often be necessary for the traveler to 

 return the way he came along a path, at 

 least any distance, and even in small 



