WINDBREAK 



WINDOW-GARDENING 3515 



if their velocity is not too great ; care must be taken to 

 allow of adequate atmospheric drainage. 



Windbreaks for orchards require much land, and 

 crops near them are likely to suffer for lack of food and 

 moisture, and also from shade. In small places, there- 

 fore, it may be impossible to establish large breaks. 

 It is well to plant the windbreak at some distance from 

 the first row of orchard trees, if possible. It is usually 



4001. A hotel window-box. 



best to use native trees for the break, since they are 

 hardy and well adapted to the particular climate. 

 Windbreaks often harbor injurious insects and fungi, 

 and care must be taken that species of trees liable to 

 these difficulties are not used. In the northeastern 

 states, for example, it would be bad practice to plant 

 the wild cherry tree, since it is so much infested with 

 the tent caterpillar. In some cases, very low breaks 

 may be as desirable as high ones. This is true in the 

 open farming lands in the dry regions, since it may be 

 necessary only to check the force of the wind near the 

 surface of the ground. Windbreaks only 2 or 3 feet 

 high, placed at intervals, may have this effect. Fence- 

 rows sometimes act as efficient windbreaks. Near the 

 sea coast, gardeners often plant low hedges for the 

 purpose of protecting the surface of the garden. (See 

 Plants for thejSeaside, page 2670.) Along the Atlantic 

 coast, the California privet is considerably used. This 

 is Ligustrum ovalifolium, a Japanese plant. Farms in 

 the open windy country may be efficiently protected by 

 belts of woodland, or, if the country is wholly cleared, 

 rows of trees may be established at intervals of a quarter 

 or half mile across the direction of the prevailing winds 

 (Fig. 4000). 



In middle California, the most common windbreak 

 is a tall thick hedge of Monterey cypress (Cupressus 

 macrocarpa), either clipped close or allowed to grow 

 naturally; it withstands heavy winds better than 

 almost any other heavy-foliaged tree and is rapid in its 

 growth. (Fig. 1790.) The Italians and Chinese, who 

 have almost complete control of the truck-gardening 

 industry in and around San Francisco, make extensive 

 use of a Californian tree-mallow, Lavatera assurgenti- 

 flora (see page 1830), as a break and protection from 

 the drift-sand. In California, various species of Euca- 

 lyptus may be used for breaks and wind-stops. The 

 giant reed (Arundo Donax) is frequently grown around 

 vineyards, particularly in the immediate vicinity of 

 water. In California the olive, European walnut, fig, 

 and almond are frequently planted for the outside row 

 of an orchard of deciduous fruit-trees, to act as a par- 

 tial windbreak. 



On the plains and prairies, several kinds of poplars 

 and willows, and also the box-elder (Acer Negundo), are 



planted for shelter-belts, because they thrive under 

 most conditions, grow raoidly, and are hardy. 



L. H. B. 



WINDFLOWER: Anenome. 



WINDOW-GARDENING. The growing of plants in 

 windows and similar openings, particularly when con- 

 ducted as a regular and systematic undertaking. 



Although not strictly a part of the 

 planting of the property, window- and 

 veranda-boxes give color and tone to the 

 place as well as provide pleasure and 

 satisfaction for the inmates of the resi- 

 dence. For those who live in crowded 

 localities or are unable to care for a gar- 

 den, these outside boxes offer an oppor- 

 tunity for a display of flowers, not only 

 in the summer months, but, in the case 

 of window-boxes and by the substitution 

 of other kinds of plants, through the 

 winter months as well. The illustrations 

 (Figs. 4001^003) show good forms of 

 window-boxes. The first two are drawn 

 from illustrations in Gardening, May 15, 

 1916. See House Plants, Vol. III. 



These boxes may be purchased and 

 may be highly ornate, having pattern 

 tiling or made of finely finished wood and 

 suspended by fancy brackets; but such 

 boxes are not necessary. A stout pine 

 box of the required length, from 10 to 

 12 inches wide and at least 6 inches 

 deep, if painted a suitable color serves quite as well as 

 the others, for the side and ends of the box should be 

 soon covered by the. drooping vines. Provision for 

 drainage should be made by boring holes in the bottom 

 of the box, these holes being covered with pieces of 

 broken pots, coal-cinders or gravel-stones. This allows 

 for the drainage of water while holding the earth from 

 escaping. The soil for these window-boxes should be 

 rich in plant-food, as the roots will be restricted. The 

 most desirable soil is one that does not pack hard when 

 watered, or contract much when dry, but remains por- 

 ous and springy. 



This soil may be made by mixing two parts of garden 

 loam, one part of leaf-mold or wood earth, and one 

 part of sand. To this mixture should be added well- 

 decayed manure, preferably cow-manure, at the rate of 

 one peck to two bushels of soil. 



Many kinds of plants may be used in window- and 

 porch-boxes, but in planting one should choose the sub- 

 jects most suitable for the particular exposure. If the 

 boxes are to be placed in full sunlight, it will be neces- 

 sary to choose vigorous-growing sun-loving plants. For 



4002. Window-box in a club" building. 



