222 WANDERINGS AND MEMORIES 



spreading the paean of future German triumph and 

 vilifying the hated English and their command of 

 the seas. Spies lurked in every village, and move- 

 ments of any travelling Englishman were watched 

 with sleuth-hound thoroughness. " All Norway 

 has eyes and ears this year," remarked our keeper, 

 Ericksen, one day, and we soon found how true this 

 was, even in the remotest valleys of the outer 

 islands. At Bodo I recognised an old enemy of 

 mine, one Juell, formerly German Consul at Namsos, 

 who had once played me a dirty trick, and I saw 

 him come swiftly on board and search the luggage 

 to see what sort of strangers there were travelling 

 north, but I took good care he did not see me, 

 though he may have ascertained that certain stupid 

 Englishmen, who regarded war as a mere side-issue, 

 were on their way to Lango to shoot as they had 

 always done, for he left the vessel after a very 

 cursory survey. At midnight we entered the lovely 

 port of Solvaer in the island of Vaago. It was still 

 but 1.30 a.m., but quite light, when we changed into 

 a tiny coasting steamer, and then worked north- 

 west through the beautiful Raft-sund, a narrow 

 strait enclosed by jagged mountains, whose tops 

 showed green and violet in the growing light. We 

 touched at little fishing ports, where boats came in 

 from the great herring fishing. The edges of the 

 Raft-sund and the islands of Vaago, Hindo, Hadsel 

 and Lango support a large population, now all 

 aboat at the fishing of herring in the sea to the west. 

 In winter the main fjord is the centre of another 

 great industry for the capture of cod, and the people 

 are fortunate in possessing two distinct periods in 

 which to do their work and make a living. In 



