264 WANDERINGS AND MEMORIES 



The island was on the direct northern route of the 

 mail steamers, and as a British Consul I had the 

 right to stop the steamers where and when I 

 pleased, so, after talking to the captain of one of 

 them, I was dropped off the island at 5 a.m. on 

 September 5th, and there found a rowing-boat, 

 with Mr. Johnsen ready to take me to his little 

 farmhouse at Rolfsohavn. 



It was a pretty spot, situated on a bright green 

 flat beneath the towering mountains, and after an 

 excellent breakfast of fresh fish, eggs and coffee 

 served by his kindly wife and sister, I strolled 

 out to the shingly beach, where numerous flocks 

 of Oyster-Catchers, Curlew, Sandpipers and Little 

 Stints were chasing the limpets and sandhoppers. 

 These little birds were exceedingly tame, and 

 allowed me to approach within a few yards. I 

 was also interested to see a Hooded Crow " play- 

 ing " with a female Merlin. The crow chased and 

 twisted after the little Falcon, and then in turn 

 the Merlin chased the Hoodie. There seemed to 

 be no personal animosity in this game, which went 

 on for quite a long time, and then, wearied of the 

 fun, both birds perched on a rock together and 

 each solemnly regarded the other. I had never 

 seen such a thing before. About 6.30 came Erik 

 the hunter, a powerful man about forty years of 

 age, and after some short preparations we started 

 up a winding path to ascend the mountain. 



The going was at first easy, and then we descended 

 to the coast-line and made our way for some five 

 miles over a series of very rough boulders. When 

 further progress along the coast seemed impossible, 

 my guide said we must now ascend to the plateau 



