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HOW TO GROW ROSES 



ences in altitude and latitude. Where the winters are not too 

 severe, as in our Gulf and Pacific Coast States, and the 



next tier of states north, 

 autumn-planting is to 

 be preferred. 



North of the line of 

 the Ohio River, only 

 our hardier varieties, 

 such, for example, as the 

 Hardy Climbers and 

 Hybrid Perpetuals, Ru- 

 gosas, Moss and Pernet- 

 ianas, will withstand the first winter out, if autumn-planted. 

 As a matter of general practice, there are, doubtless, 

 ten times as many roses planted in spring as in autumn. 

 For the latitude of Philadelphia, dormant roses should be 

 planted as soon in spring as the soil is dry enough to 

 crumble in the hand, and plantings may continue till mid- 

 April. Growing roses from pots should not be set out until 

 danger from frost is past, usually the last week in April. If 

 you live north of 40 degrees latitude, defer planting from this 

 date by one week for every hundred miles. Do not attempt 

 any planting operations with the ground frozen, or the ther- 

 mometer below 45 degrees Fahr. Roses from pots, when 

 shipped with soil on the roots, may be planted at any time 

 through the growing season, even through the summer. 



Treatment on Arrival 



Think of your roses as living creatures, even though they 

 be asleep (dormant) when you first get them. Unwrap them 

 with the greatest care; never expose the roots to the drying 

 action of the spring winds for a moment. A plant with bare 

 roots exposed to the dry air is like a fish out of water. Untie 

 the bundles so as not to break, bark or bruise either root or 

 branch. Should the plants, through delay in transit, come 

 dried out, as occasionally happens, soak the balls of earth 

 and roots in water; if the stems also have dried out, bury 

 the whole plant in damp earth for three or four days till the 



