HOW TO GROW ROSES 



Own-Root, and Budded or Grafted Roses 



Every rose-grower should learn the difference. In a 

 budded or grafted rose, the top of a good flowering variety 

 has been joined and made to grow onto the 

 root of a "wild" rose. An own-root rose never 

 borrowed roots. It stands on its own feet, so 

 that, if the top be winter-killed, the new 

 growth from the root will bloom true as at 

 first. Not so with the budded or grafted rose. 

 If the top be killed, the "wild" root is worth- 

 less; throw it out. 



As a general rule, for application over a 

 broad area, the experience of many people in 

 many different localities indicates a preference 

 for own-root roses in as many varieties as will 

 make satisfactory and vigorous growth. 



Some varieties, however, when grown on 

 their own roots, are not thrifty and vigorous. 

 Such kinds should be obtained in plants that 

 have been budded or grafted onto roots of a 

 stronger-growing rose in order to obtain the desired growth 

 and abundant bloom. Multiflora, Canina, Manetti, and 

 other stocks are used for this purpose. When planting own- 

 root roses, set in the soil a trifle deeper than the stain of the 

 soil on the stem indicates it grew before. When planting 

 budded or grafted roses, set with the joint or union of top 

 and root an inch below the surface of the soil, and watch for 

 suckers. If there appears any growth originating below the 

 union, dig away the soil and cut it off close up to the stem; 



otherwise it may 

 grow up and 

 crowd out the 

 flower-bearing 

 part of the plant. 

 These suckers 

 usually show 7 

 The process of |~ t or 9 leaflets. 



budding 



A budded rose 

 may be distin- 

 guished from the 

 own-root by knot- 

 formation of the 

 former. See arrow. 



