308 THE RURAL EFFICIENCY GUIDE STOCK 



him under the chin and talk to him in a soothing voice and all will be well. 

 The next morning the birds should be looked after. The capon will usually 

 be hovering the little fellows, but if he is in doubt, standing on one leg and 

 not clucking much, they should be taken away leaving the capon alone until 

 night when the chicks should be put under him again. By the second night 

 the most obstinate of capons will be ready to fight for the brood. When a 

 capon has once been taught how to brood he can be given a brood of chicks 

 with perfect safety. 



The larger breeds such as the Cochin, Brahma, Plymouth Rock, Langshan, 

 or Wyandotte are the most suitable for caponizing. 



When to Caponize. Fowls can be caponized practically any time in the 

 year. However, it is an advantage to perform the operation in the spring 

 before hot weather comes. They should be from two to three months old and 

 weigh about two pounds, depending upon their development. Caponizing is 

 usually done about the time the cockerels begin to exhibit sexual proclivities, 

 that is about the time they begin to crow. The operation is comparatively 

 painless and safe as but from two to five per cent die from it. Since these die 

 by bleeding in a few minutes, they are still excellent for table use. A good set 

 of tools is necessary and can be purchased for two or three dollars. A com- 

 plete set of instructions comes with each set so it would be a waste of space 

 to give detailed directions here. 



After caponizing, give the bird plenty of soft feed and water to drink. A 

 capon begins eating immediately after being caponized and one would not 

 think that any radical change had taken place in his nature. He should be 

 left to himself as he is his own doctor for the time being. Two or three days 

 after the operation, however, it is well to look the bird over to see if any air 

 has gotten under the skin, causing a slight swelling or "wind puff". If one 

 has formed, it can be relieved by piercing the skin at one side of the swelling 

 with a sharp needle and gently pressing out the air. Feed capons nourishing, 

 not fattening, food, thus keeping them growing. They should be allowed to 

 grow until they are matured, which is generally one year. 



Caponizing has not been widely practiced in this country so far but it is 

 steadily gaining in favor. Any man with ordinary intelligence can learn to 

 caponize quickly and efficiently in a short time. More capons appear on the 

 market each year and never fail to bring a very high price. 



Capons should be fattened for about three weeks before they are sent to 

 market. Put them in a small yard and feed them two or three times a day. 

 They can be fattened on one of the rations given under "Fattening Poultry," 

 or on the following: equal parts, by weight, of ground oats and corn meal, 

 moistened with milk or water. 



Dress capons so they can be distinguished on the market. A good way 

 is to leave the head and hackle feathers, the tail feathers, including those a 

 little way up the back, the feathers on the wings to the second joint, and those 

 on the legs halfway up the thigh. Also leave the head on as the undeveloped 

 comb and wattles make a distinguishing mark. 



