6 12 RED SURMULLET. 



are reported to have been sometimes given; though 

 it is probable that the high estimation in which it 

 was held by the ancient Greeks and Romans was 

 more owing to a prejudice entertained on account 

 of its elegant appearance, than to its real merit as 

 a food. The Romans practised a singular refine- 

 ment in luxury by first bringing the fish alive to 

 the table in a glass vessel, in order that the guests 

 might enjoy the pleasure of contemplating the 

 beautiful changes of its evanescent colours during 

 the time of its gradual expiration ; after which it 

 was prepared for their repast*. 



* Mullum expirantem versicolori quadam et numerosa spectari, 

 proceres gulae narrant, rubentium squamarum multiplici mutations 

 pallescentium, utique si vitro spectetur inclusus. 



Plin. lib. 9. cap. 17. 



Ad hunc fastum pervenere ventres delicatorum, ut gustare non 

 possint piscem, nisi quern in ipso convivio natantem palpitantem- 

 que viderint. Quanto ad solertiam luxuriae plures eunt, tanto 

 subtilius quotidie et elegantius excogitat furor, usitata contemnens : 

 ilia audiebamus nihil esse melius saxatili Mullo : at nunc audimus > 

 nihil est moriente formosius. Da mihi in manus vas vitreum in 

 quo exultet, in quo trepidet : ubi multum diuque laudatus in illo 

 perlucido vivario extrahitur, tune ut quisque peritior est monstrat. 

 Vide quomodo exarserit rubor omni acrior minio ! vide quas per 

 latera venas agat ! ecce ! sanguinem putes ventrem ! quam 

 lucidum quiddam caeruleumque sub ipso tempore efFulsit ! jam 

 porrigitur et pallet, et in unum colorem componitur ! 



Seneca. 



