STORING THE CROP 4I 



and quite cheaply, if desired. Ordinary rough posts, 

 cut in the woods, set into the ground three or four 

 feet deep, may serve as a framework. I think I 

 would divide the storage rooms on each side into 

 shelves, making at least four of them, each two feet 

 deep. The onions can then be stored twelve to eighteen 

 inches deep, leaving space enough for free airing and 

 drying between the layers. The loft may also be used 

 for curing onions, or for storing corn and for other 

 purposes. 



If we could depend on dry weather right along, 

 we might easily dispense with a curing shed, lofts, 

 etc, as the bulbs will cure very well outdoors. In 

 a dry spell we can even leave the crop unharvested 

 for some time after it is ready for pulling. But this 

 is not a safe way. Many onions are lost, or much 

 deteriorated in value, by being left unharvested 

 too long. 



Any ordinary corn crib, or a dry loft in the barn, 

 may be utilized for a place to store onions during 

 late summer and fall. Of course we don't expect to 

 winter them in any place where exposed to repeated 

 freezing and thawing Gibraltars are not a good 

 keeper. Prizetakers when well matured and cured can 

 easily be kept until spring, and in some cases it may 

 be very profitable to do so. 



J. G. Rawley of jMichigan gives in American 

 Agriculturist the following description of his newly 

 erected onion storage house. (See Fig 36.) 



"The storage house shown here is located on the 

 south side of a hill and faces south and east. It is 

 forty feet long by twenty-four wide, and has a stone 

 basement. The stone walls on either side are seven 

 and one-half feet high and two feet thick; wall at 

 west is twelve feet high, the one at the east end eight 

 feet. There are two stories above the basement. The 



