tJI'LANP SHOOTING. 247 



prefer the ho.iom, as I believe it is the fashion of these modest 

 days to teim the white meat. 



For tlie benefit of wliit the French are pleased to call aniphi- 

 tryons, the excellent m;Mi who are rich enoupfh to give good 

 dinners, and of the happy men who are allowed to eat them, 

 I will add, that red wine is the tiling with game of all kinds. 

 The riglit thing of all is C/iainbertln, or clan de Vougcot ! but, 

 in default of these, a sound Lcifittc or Latotir claret is excel- 

 lently Will in place. Champagne is not the thing in the least; 

 and, for those who aspire to feed themselves or their friends 

 creditably, without aiming at the expense of the costly French 

 red wines, allow me to suggest, that a glass of good gold sherry 

 is perfectly allowable with game. Except at a ball supper, no 

 one, except counter-jumpers, ever think of champagne, beyond 

 oni' tumbler with the roti. 



The iiL'xi: thing to killing your game handsomely, after find- 

 ing it guostically, is undoubtedly knowing how to set it on the 

 table, for the benefit of your friends, in perfection, and with the 

 proper accessories; and a hint or two on this subject may be 

 pardoned, even in a work on field sports, — especially where 

 such abominations are practiced, as eating Snipe and Woodcock 

 high, drawing the trail, and broiling them ; and eating currant, 

 or plum jelly, with roast Grouse ; or cranberries with venison. 



Nothing in my eyes is more contemptible, than the man who 

 cannot rough it upon occasion, — who cannot dine heartily, and 

 with a relish, on a bit of cold salt pork, and a crust of bread, 

 when he can get nothing better ; but nothing is more stupidly, 

 or hopelessly savage, than the man who does not care what he 

 eats. 



In the code of game-cookery, the gridiron is an article of the ctht^ '^ 

 kitchen prohihitcd, unless in the case of a venison steak, a BeaTjO.. -/.^ / 

 chop, or a Wild Duck. To broil a Quail, or a Grouse, much > s»^.a,- 

 more a Snipe, or a Woodcock, ought to be made — likeyr^m^ a 

 beefsteak — death without benefit of clergy. , y "" 



