COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 261 



most. And while it is perhaps one of the few modes 

 in which young and good partridges are not much 

 less good than when roasted, it gives an excellent 

 account of the aged and the half-bred. 



Perdrix aux choux abroad is a dish not less 

 homely, though much more widely spread, than 

 partridge pudding in England ; and receipts for it are 

 innumerable in all French and many English books. 

 I find this succinct description (apparently half of 

 French, half of German origin) in 'The Professed 

 Cook,' third edition, 1776, by ' B. Clermont, who has 

 been many years clerk of the kitchen to some of the 

 first families in this kingdom,' and more particularly 

 seems to have served as officier de bouche to the Earls 

 of Abingdon and Ashburnham, from whom, let us 

 hope, that he continued, even unto Zouche and 

 Zetland. B. Clermont does not waste many words 

 over the dish, but thus dismisses it : 



' Perdrix a la braze [sic] aux choux. Brazed with 

 cabbages and a bit of pickled pork, with a good cullis 

 sauce. Savoys are the best for stewing. Such as 

 would have them in the manner of sowerkrout must 

 stew the cabbage very tender and pretty high of 

 spices, and add as much vinegar as will give it a 

 tartish taste. This last is commonly served in a 

 tureen, and then it is so-called. Old partridges are 



