268 COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 



likenesses under differences will very quickly hit upon 

 the truth that a chartreuse of partridge is merely 

 perdrix aux choux adjusted to the general require- 

 ments of the chartreuse, which are that the mixture 

 shall be put into a mould and baked in an oven. 

 The fullest descriptions of both will be found almost 

 identical, the savoy cabbage being there, and the 

 bacon, and the sausage. The chief difference is that, 

 for the sake of effect chiefly, since the chartreuse is 

 turned out of the mould and exhibited standing, 

 slices of carrot play a prominent part. They are put, 

 sometimes alternating with sausage, sometimes with 

 turnip, next to the sides of the mould ; then comes a 

 lining of bacon and cabbage, and then the birds with 

 more bacon and more cabbage are packed in the 

 middle, after being previously cooked by frying and 

 stewing in stock with more bacon and the usual 

 accessories. A simpler chartreuse is sometimes made 

 with nothing but the birds and the vegetables, both 

 bacon and sausage being omitted ; and it would 

 clearly be within the resources and the rights of 

 science to use the bacon but not the sausage, and to 

 introduce other varieties. For, in fact, in the more 

 complex kinds of cookery there are no hard-and-fast 

 rules, and the proof not merely of puddings but of 

 every dish is in the eating. 



