272 COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 



and taking out all the bones except the pinions and 

 drumsticks, which are left. Cutlets thus fashioned 

 can be accommodated in various ways, especially by 

 saute* ing them with divers sauces. The name cutlet 

 is also given to less imposing fragments of the bird, 

 which can be dealt with of course in almost any of 

 the myriad manners in which cutlets are served. 

 The best known perhaps and the commonest in books, 

 if not best in the dish, is a la rcgence. This is a 

 rather complicated preparation, in which the birds are 

 subjected to three different methods of cooking, the 

 results of which are destined to be united. The 

 roasted breasts are cut into small round pieces which 

 serve to give distinction to artificial cutlets, formed in 

 moulds, of a farce or forcemeat made of raw partridge 

 pounded with egg, mushroom, etc., into a paste. 

 These cutlets are then sent up in a sauce made of the 

 bones and remnants of the birds stewed with butter, 

 bacon-bones, herbs, wine, and brown sauce, finally 

 compounded with about half the quantity of celery 

 shredded, stewed and pulped to a cream. The effect 

 is good, but the dish belongs to the family of over- 

 complicated receipts, which to my thinking belong to 

 a semi-barbarous period and theory of cookery. 



Partridge a la Parisienne, on the other hand, is 

 sound in principle and excellent in effect. The birds 



