274 COOKERY OF THE r ART RIDGE 



Partridge a la Cussy is a braised partridge with 

 peculiarities. In the first place, he is boned com- 

 pletely, except as to the legs. He is then stuffed with 

 a mixture of sweetbreads, mushrooms, truffles, and 

 cockscombs, sewn up, and half grilled, until he 

 becomes reasonably consolidated. Then a braising- 

 pan is taken, lined with ham, and garnished with the 

 invariable accompaniments of partridge in French 

 cookery onions, carrot, mixed herbs in bouquets, 

 chopped bacon, the bones of the birds smashed up, 

 salt and pepper, white wine, and stock. Into this, 

 after the accompaniments have been reasonably 

 cooked, the birds are put, protected by buttered 

 paper, and simmered slowly, with the due rite of fire 

 above as well as below, which constitutes braising 

 proper. They are finally served up, as usual, with 

 their own sauce strained and skimmed. 



The Italian fashion is not wholly dissimilar, 

 though it is usually given under the general head of 

 ' baking,' as will be evident to every one whose idea 

 of cookery has got past words and come to things. 

 Indeed, though 1 have never seen it recommended, 

 I should think it could be done best in what I 

 am told is called at the Cape a ' Dutch baking -pot,' 

 which is a slightly more refined edition of our old 

 friend Robinson Crusoe's favourite method of cook- 



