COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 275 



ing. The partridges are simply prepared as if for 

 roasting, but instead of being left hollow, each is 

 stuffed with fine breadcrumbs, a little nutmeg, salt, 

 pepper, butter, parsley, and lemon juice. A sheet of 

 oiled paper being prepared for each bird, it is spread 

 with a mixed mincemeat of mushroom, carrot, 

 onion, parsley, herbs a volonte, and truffles. In 

 the sheet thus prepared the bird, previously waist- 

 coated with bacon, is tied up. Then he is put in a 

 covered pan and baked, being now and again un- 

 covered and basted. At last, after three-quarters of 

 an hour or so, unclothe, dish, and serve him with the 

 trimmings and clothings made thoroughly hot with 

 stock, wine, and the usual appurtenances for such 

 occasions made and provided. 



I think that this is a tolerable summary of most 

 of the best ways of cooking ' the bird ' par eminence. 

 There are others which vitiosa libido, or, if any likes 

 it, refined taste, has found out. Thus, before making 

 a partridge salad you may, if you like, marinade the 

 birds in veal stock, tarragon vinegar, salad oil, and 

 herbs, using the marinade afterwards as a dressing. 

 And you may play the obvious tricks of filling 

 partridges with foie gras and the like. In short, as 

 has been hinted more than once, the bird, while 

 requiring a very little purely decorative treatment, is 



