Ill POINTS OF ETIQUETTE 45 



until somebody comes out and asks you to alight, it is not 

 customary even to get off your horse : the formal answer of the 

 owner is, "sin pecado concebida" — that is, conceived without 

 sin. Having entered the house, some general conversation is 

 kept up for a few minutes, till permission is asked to pass the 

 night there. This is granted as a matter of course. The 

 stranger then takes his meals with the family, and a room is 

 assigned him, where with the horsecloths belonging to his recado 

 (or saddle of the Pampas) he makes his bed. It is curious how 

 similar circumstances produce such similar results in manners. 

 At the Cape of Good Hope the same hospitality, and very 

 nearly the same points of etiquette, are universally observed. 

 The difference, however, between the character of the Spaniard 

 and that of the Dutch boor is shown, by the former never ask- 

 ing his guest a single question beyond the strictest rule of 

 politeness, whilst the honest Dutchman demands where he 

 has been, where he is going, what is his business, and even 

 how many brothers, sisters, or children he may happen to have. 



Shortly after our arrival at Don Juan's one of the large 

 herds of cattle was driven in towards the house, and three 

 beasts were picked out to be slaughtered for the supply of the 

 establishment. These half- wild cattle are very active ; and 

 knowing full well the fatal lazo, they led the horses a long and 

 laborious chase. After witnessing the rude wealth displayed in 

 the number of cattle, men, and horses, Don Juan's miserable, 

 house was quite curious. The floor consisted of hardened mud, 

 and the windows were without glass ; the sitting-room boasted 

 only of a few of the roughest chairs and stools, with a couple 

 of tables. The supper, although several strangers were present, 

 consisted of two huge piles, one of roast beef, the other of 

 boiled, with some pieces of pumpkin : besides this latter there 

 was no other vegetable, and not even a morsel of bread. F"or 

 drinking, a large earthenware jug of water served the whole 

 party. Yet this man was the owner of several square miles of 

 land, of which nearly every acre would produce corn, and, with 

 a little trouble, all the common vegetables. The evening was 

 spent in smoking, with a little impromptu singing, accompanied 

 by the guitar. The signoritas all sat together in one corner of 

 the room, and did not sup with the men. 



So many works have been written about these countries, 



