XIII SUCCESSFUL ASCENT OF A HILL 301 



continued scrambling up and down over the sharp rocks of 

 mica-slate ; and as for the woods, our faces, hands, and shin- 

 bones all bore witness to the maltreatment we received, in 

 merely attempting to penetrate their forbidden recesses. 



December \%tJi. — We stood out to sea. On the 20th we 

 bade farewell to the south, and with a fair wind turned the 

 ship's head northward. From Cape Tres Montes we sailed 

 pleasantly along the lofty weather-beaten coast, which . is 

 remarkable for the bold outline of its hills, and the thick 

 covering of forest even on the almost precipitous flanks. The 

 ne.xt day a harbour was discovered, which on this dangerous 

 coast might be of great service to a distressed vessel. It can 

 easily be recognised by a hill 1 600 feet high, which is even 

 more perfectly conical than the famous sugar-loaf at Rio de 

 Janeiro. The next day, after anchoring, I succeeded in 

 reaching the summit of this hill. It was a laborious under- 

 taking, for the sides were so steep that in some parts it was 

 necessary to use the trees as ladders. There were also several 

 extensive brakes of the Fuchsia, covered with its beautiful 

 drooping flowers, but very difficult to crawl through. In these 

 wild countries it gives much delight to gain the summit of 

 any mountain. There is an indefinite expectation of seeing 

 something very strange, which, however often it may be balked, 

 never failed with me to recur on each successive attempt. 

 Every one must know the feeling of triumph and pride which 

 a grand view from a height communicates to the mind. In 

 these little frequented countries there is also joined to it some 

 vanity, that you perhaps are the first man who ever stood on 

 this pinnacle or admired this view. 



A strong desire is always felt to ascertain whether any 

 human being has previously visited an unfrequented spot. A 

 bit of wood with a nail in it is picked up and studied as if it 

 were covered with hieroglyphics. Possessed with this feeling, 

 I was much interested by finding, on a wild part of the coast, 

 a bed made of grass beneath a ledge of rock. Close by it 

 there had been a fire, and the man had used an axe. The fire, 

 bed, and situation showed the dexterity of an Indian ; but he 

 could scarcely have been an Indian, for the race is in this part 

 extinct, owing to the Catholic desire of making at one blow 

 Christians and Slaves. I had at the time some misgivings 



