BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 43 



in every kind of writing and figuring. Drawing as a founda- 

 tion for forming good seamstresses and dressmakers was ac- 

 centuated very strongly by Frau Ree. 



"Many of the pupils were occupied in designing original 

 patterns. These patterns are afterwards worked out in bead 

 or silk embroidery in the art-room. The patterns were all cut 

 in the underclothing-room on scientific principles. They were 

 first drawn on paper according to measure, then cut. They 

 were also taught the rules of enlarging or making smaller. The 

 sewing on white goods was exquisite. Every kind of stitch 

 known was made on pattern-slips of linen two or three feet or 

 less long. The seams sewed on the bias were marked, ' Felled 

 seams on the bias' To pass the board of examiners, it is neces- 

 sary to have made a shirt or chemise by hand, as well as other 

 articles. The board of examiners is composed of men. On 

 being asked what they knew of sewing, Frau Ree laughed, and 

 said that she was trying to have women appointed on the board. 



"On account of having no special printing-establishments 

 in Hamburg, there are few opportunities for a girl to get a 

 situation as a designer. 



"In speaking of the little regard for educated women, she 

 said those lady- doctors in Hamburg, who had studied dentistry 

 in America, were not allowed to put out their signs as American 

 dentists. Also I believe that one of the professors in the dental 

 department was not permitted to use his American title. 



"All the girls who study underclothes-making (they are here 

 trained for going into large white-clothes establishments) must 

 learn to sew on the machine. Frau Ree said that the American 

 sewing machines were the best in the world, but that Ameri- 

 cans could not sew the best on them; when Singer, or Wheeler, 

 or others wish to exhibit samples of what their machines could 

 do, they would send to Hamburg to hire the work done. The 

 pupils made entire garments out of white tissue paper, sewed 

 with the same care and skill as if it were in linen. Carefully 

 feather-stitched around the neck and sleeves, the little chemises 

 looked very dainty. 



"Frau Ree said the pupils delighted to make them, and she 

 encouraged it, since it gave lightness of hand. 



