BUDDING OR GRAFTING BY DETACHED BUDS. 



305 



cut in the stock and of the bud must be brought into the most perfect con- 

 tact with each other (e), and then bound with waterproof bast (/), without, 



however, applying grafting- clay. 

 Eight days after the insertion of 

 the bud, the stock is pruned down 

 to the branch above on the opposite 

 side, and this branch is stopped by 

 being cut down to two or three 

 eyes ; all the side-wood is destroyed 

 as it appears ; and when the bud 

 has pushed its fifth leaf, the shoot 

 it has made is compelled to branch- 

 by pinching off its extremity; it 

 will then flower in September of 

 the same year. The rose may also 

 be budded in spring, without waiting 



Fig. 238. Shield-budding the rose in spring. till the bark separates, by placing 



the bud with some wood on it in a niche made in the stock as at (g\ similar 

 to what would be formed by taking an eye off it, for budding in the manner 

 above described; the bud is fitted exactly in the niche, with a slight pres- 

 sure, and then tied on as usual. The camellia may also be budded in this 

 manner in spring by taking a bud with the wood in from the scion, and 

 substituting it for a corresponding piece cut out of the stock, as in fig. 239. 



682. Shield-budding without a bud or eye 

 (fig. 240) is used simply to cover a wound 

 or blemish in one tree by a portion of the 

 live bark of another. 



683. Budding with a circular shield, with 

 a portion of wood attached, (fig. 241,) is em- 

 ployed to equalise the flower-buds over a tree, 



removing some from places where there 



Fig. 239. Shield-bud- are too many to other places in which there Fig 24Q 



ding the camellia in are too few. With the point of a penknife, grafting with- 

 in spring, cut a small cone of bark and wood bud. 

 containing a bud, and insert it in an orifice made in the same manner, secur- 

 ing the edges with grafting -wax. 



684. Budding with a shield stamped out by a 

 punch (fig.242) is considered excellent for budding 

 old trees, the thick and rugged bark of which is not 

 suitable for being taken off with the budding- 

 knife. With a mallet the punch (fig. 243) is driven 

 through the bark of the scion, and then through 

 that of the stock, and the piece which comes out 

 of the former is inserted in the cavity formed by 

 F , 241 Bud _ the piece taken out of the latter. 



dingwithadr- 685. Budding w ith the sh ield reversed (fig. 244) by the 

 cuiar shield. j s almost the only manner of budding used in the punch. 

 south of Europe, particularly at Genoa and Hieres, to propagate orange- 

 trees. It is said also to be suitable for trees having abundant and gummy 

 sap. 



686. Budding with the eye turned downwards. By this method the buds 



Fig.242. Budding 

 Of a 



