TRANSPLANTING AND PLANTING. 311 



roots in a limited space may be the better adapted for being again trans- 

 planted. In the operation of transplanting tap-rooted seedlings, it is found 

 of use either to cause the soil to press equally against every part of the root; 

 or if it presses more upon one part than another, that that part shall be the 

 lower extremity. The reason of this is, that the pressure, wherever applied, 

 stops the returning sap ; and when it is not applied at the lower extremity, 

 the part of the root below where it takes place ceases to increase in thick- 

 ness, or to protrude fibres. Transplanting in pots will form the subject of 

 a separate section. 



702. Deciduous trees and shrubs, and perennial herbaceous plants., can only 

 be safely transplanted when in a dormant state. This dormant state is 

 indicated by the fall of the leaf, at which period the roots, stem, and 

 branches contain a greater accumulation of nutritive matter than they do at 

 any other season of the year, and not being in a state of activity, they can 

 exist in a great measure without the assistance of the spongioles. They are, 

 therefore, in a fitter state for being transplanted than they can be at any other 

 period, and the success will in general be in proportion to the number of 

 roots that are taken up entire. In the case of herbaceous plants, and of trees 

 and shrubs under five or six feet in height, this can be accomplished without 

 difficulty ; but with larger plants the roots are unavoidably more or less mu- 

 tilated, and the growth of the transplanted plant for the first year, or 

 probably for some years afterwards, is much less vigorous than if the roots 

 had been taken up entire. 



703. Whether deciduous trees and shrubs ought to be transplanted in autumn 

 or spring, is a question respecting which gardeners and foresters are of dif- 

 ferent opinions. That of Miller and of most gardeners is, that immediately 

 after the fall of the leaf in autum is the best season, provided the soil be dry ; 

 but that for a very wet soil it is better to wait till the end of February, or 

 till the period immediately preceding the rise of the sap. Some gardeners 

 recommend transplanting " early in autumn, soon after the leaves begin to 

 fall, but while a considerable quantity yet remain in a mature and efficient 

 state." In this case it is alleged that " by the action of the mature leaves 

 which remain, the injuries which the roots may have sustained will be 

 speedily repaired ; new roots will be immediately produced, and the plant will 

 then become established before winter, and prepared to grow with nearly if not 

 quite its usual vigour in the following spring." (Gard. Chron. vol. i. p. 811.) 

 In the neighbourhood of London, wall-fruit trees are frequently transplanted 

 in this manner. Early in autumn is undoubtedly the best time, considered 

 physiologically; because then, whether the plants are with or without some of 

 their leaves, the wounds made in the roots begin to cicatrise, and to protrude 

 granulous matter, and in many cases even spongioles, immediately ; and by 

 the time spring arrives, the plant, if it has been taken up with most of its 

 roots, will grow with as much vigour as if it had not been transplanted. 

 For obvious reasons, the next best season to that immediately following the 

 fall of the leaf, is the remainder of the autumn, and the winter months during 

 open weather. There may be local reasons why the beginning of spring may 

 be preferable to autumn ; but such reasons can never apply generally. A 

 second argument in favour of autumn-planting, is the dampness of the atmo- 

 sphere which prevails at that season, and during winter ; by which the 

 perspiration through the bark is lessened, and the demand made on the 

 roots to supply the waste is consequently diminished. In spring, not only 



