498 CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER IN A DUNG-BED. 



winter crop in this way, and found, " that the plants raised from cuttings 

 are less succulent, and therefore do not so readily damp off, or suffer from 

 the low temperature to which they are liable to be exposed irt severe weather ; 

 that they come into bearing immediately as they have formed roots of suf- 

 ficient strength to support their fruit, and do not run so much to barren 

 vine as seedlings are apt to do." He advises the cuttings to be taken from 

 the tops of the bearing shoots, and planted in pots nine inches deep, half 

 filled with mould. They should then be watered, and, the tops of the pots 

 being covered with flat pieces of glass, they should be plunged into a gentle 

 bottom-heat. " The sides of the pot act as a sufficient shade for the cuttings 

 during the time they are striking, and the flat glass, in this and in similar 

 operations, answers all the purposes of bell-glasses. The cuttings form 

 roots, and are ready to pot off in less than a fortnight." (^Hort. Trans., 

 vol. iv., p. 411.) Mr. Duncan considers plants raised from seed as best, 

 through every period of winter, from November to March; and cuttings 

 during the interval between these months. Cuttings, he says, form the 

 most prolific plants, and are not so luxuriant as seedlings. [Cucumber 

 Culture, 4-0-, p. 26.) 



1056. Fruiting bed. The dung should be prepared as for the seed bed. 

 The size of the frame may be 12 feet long, and 4 feet wide, the height at 

 the back 2 feet, and in front I foot 6 inches ; the lights should be glazed 

 with sheet glass, one pane to each division. If the bed is made in an exca- 

 vation, it should be sufficiently large to allow of the dung being 8 inches 

 wider than the frame all round ; with an additional space of 18 inches in 

 width for linings, which will require a space 15 feet 6 inches long by 8 feet 

 wide. Where there is a proper melon ground, however, such an excavation 

 will be unnecessary. " Commence the erection of the bed by laying on the 

 ground, nine inches or a foot thick, brushwood, or the loppings of trees, 4 

 feet 6 inches wide, and 12 feet 6 inches long ; on the wood lay a little long 

 litter to keep the dung from falling into it, as this would stop the drainage, 

 and prevent the bottom heat from working under the bed. Upon the litter 

 place your manure, carefully shaking it as you proceed, and keeping the 

 surface regular, by beating it down with a fork as you advance, but do not 

 tread it. The manure should be 4 feet or 5 feet high at the back, inde- 

 pendently of the wood, and 6 inches lower in front. When the bed is 

 finished, put on the frame, and keep the lights carefully closed till the heat 

 rises, then give air, in order that the rank steam may pass off; fork over 

 the surface every other day, as directed for the seed-bed, and as the heat 

 decreases give less air. If the dung with which the bed has been made has 

 undergone the preparation directed, it will be fit to receive the plants in 

 about fourteen days. Before transplanting, however, prove the sweetness 

 of the manure with a candle and lantern, as pointed out for the seed-bed ; 

 and, if satisfied on this important point, from 12 inches to ]8 inches thick 

 of peat-earth may be put on, to form the hillocks for the reception of the 

 plants, taking care that as little as possible of the surface of the bed be 

 covered therewith, for the less heat there is confined under the mould, the 

 less liable will the roots be to receive injury." 



1057. Ridging out the plants. After the mould has been in the frame 

 twenty-four hours, it will be sufficiently warm for the plants to be ridged 

 out. To do this, make a hole in the top of each hillock, and place the pot 

 containing the plant in it ; you will then be able to judge as to the proper 



