584 THE GRAPE. 



the flue enters, they will ripen nearly a month earlier than any of the 

 other kinds. 



1273. Grapes for a late crop in a vinery. Black Damascus, Black Fron- 

 tignan, Black Hamburgh, Red Syracuse, Black Muscadel, syn. Black Raisin, 

 and White Raisin, Black Prince, and West's St. Peter's. 



1274. Grapes for a house in which pines are grown. White Muscadine 

 and Sweetwater, for early sorts ; and for a succession, Black Muscadel, 

 Hamburgh, and Damascus, White Frontignan, and Muscat of Alexandria. 

 Half of the whole number of plants should be Muscats, and half of the 

 remainder Hamburghs and Frontignans. One plant of each of the other 

 sorts will be enough. 



1275. Grapes with small leaves, and hardy ; adapted for the rafters of 

 a green-house. White and Black Sweetwater, Black Cluster, syn. Black 

 Morillon, Black Muscadine, Parsley-leaved Muscadine. 



1276. Grapes with small leaves, less hardy than the preceding selection, and 

 fit for the rafters of a plant-stove. Chasselas Musque, Blue Frontignan, Blue 



Tokay, Royal Muscadine, and Parsley-leaved grape. 



1277. Grapes with small bunches and berries adapted for being grown in 

 pots or boxes. Black and White Corinth, Black Cluster, and Pitmaston 

 White Cluster, Red and Grizzly Frontignan, White and Red Bur- 

 gundy, &c. 



1278. Grapes for a cottage garden where the climate is not very favourable. 

 White Muscadine, Black July, Large Black Muscadine, and Pitmaston 

 White Cluster. 



3 279. Grapes suitable for the open wall, or for cottages in situations where 

 the peach will ripen on the open wall see Mr. Hoare's list in p. 472. If 

 the peach requires a flued wall, so will the grapes in this list ; and when 

 they are planted against a house, it should only be on those walls which are 

 decidedly warm, from facing the south and from a fire always being kept in 

 the room within, or from the wall containing a chimney-flue to a fire in 

 constant use. 



1280. Propagation, see 606, 958, 968, and 981. 



1281. Culture, pruning, training, 6$c., see Sect. II., pp. 452 to 472. 



1282. Pruning. The shoots of the vine, the rose, and indeed of plants 

 generally, have always on the lower part of the growing shoot two or three 

 weak leaves, which soon drop off, and the buds in the axils of these leaves 

 are generally so small as to be called by gardeners blind. They are never 

 developed unless the shoot is cut down to them, and even then, if they push, 

 they never produce blossoms. Hence, in shortening young wood of the vine 

 in the open air, it should seldom or never be cut to one of these blind buds, 

 but to a conspicuous plump bud, three, four, or five leaves from the origin 

 of the shoot. The largest leaves and best buds on vines in the open garden 

 will generally be found those produced between the middle of May and the 

 middle of June ; and such buds, if the vine is tolerably strong, will be 

 certain of producing shoots with blossoms. These remarks are applicable in 

 a particular manner to vines grown against walls and cottages, where no 

 extraordinary attention is paid to the soil; but for vines under glass or 

 against walls, with highly enriched borders, the young wood of the vine 

 may be cut off nearly close to the old wood, and the shoot that will be pro- 

 duced from an embryo bud will contain blossoms, as already noticed under 

 spurring-in pruning (963). It is necessary for the amateur vine-pruner to 



