ST. KILDA. GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 29 



as usual, smoky and dark, but each house has a door 

 with a wooden lock and key, a luxury quite unknown 

 in other parts of the Highlands. Among the houses are 

 still to be seen the ruins of that which was so long the 

 prison of the celebrated Lady Grange, whose story is 

 attended with circumstances so romantic, that it is dif- 

 ficult to believe it could have occurred in times so recent. 

 The traveller will be amused to see the sea gulls sitting 

 on the roofs of the houses with the familiarity of pigeons ; 

 unnoticed by, as unnoticing their natural enemies. 



The sheep of St. Kilda are of the ancient Highland, 

 or Norwegian breed, now nearly extirpated every where 

 else; and among them are many of the brown fleeced 

 variety, natives alike of Iceland. I was unable, from 

 the absence of the minister, to procure an account of 

 their numbers, or of those of the other cattle. The milk 

 of the ewe is manufactured into cheese, being mixed with 

 that of the cow and goat, this forming one of the articles 

 of export. The whole surplus of the cattle is consumed in 

 the island; the long navigation preventing any exportation 

 of live stock, and ships universally avoiding the coast 

 from an evil reputation it has acquired among mariners. 

 This want of commerce however, prevents that acquisition 

 of disposeable wealth which would speedily find its way 

 to the landlord in the form of rent, and is thus the cause 

 of the superior condition of the inhabitants, when com- 

 pared to those of the Long island where there is a regular 

 demand for the produce of pasturage : they are hence 

 the only Highlanders who have the command of animal 

 food. The pampered native of St. Kilda may with reason 

 refuse to change his situation ; finding his amusement 

 where his chief occupation lies, in the pursuit of the 

 sea fowl, that constitute at the same time his game, 

 his luxury, and a considerable part of his wealth. Free 

 from the reputed evils of law, physic, politics, and taxes ; 

 living under a patriarchal government, among a social 

 circle of his relations ; in a mild climate, without know- 



