4 STAFFA.-* GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 



which can rarely happen to the tourist, since a boat will 

 seldom be out in that sea which would render access to 

 it impossible. But it can not be thoroughly seen unless 

 entered in a boat, except by expert climbers; nor can 

 the two caves situated at the south-west side be visited in 

 any other manner, since they admit of no access from 

 above. The visit to these two caves is, like that to the 

 former, made an object of terror by the native boatmen; 

 partly from a desire to avoid trouble, and partly from 

 want of skill and knowledge of the ground. The Boat 

 cave indeed cannot, on account of its very small size, 

 be entered at all, except in calm weather and at high 

 water, as its mouth is obstructed by rocks. In entering any 

 of these caves it is necessary that the boatmen on each 

 side should be provided with boat hooks or short poles ; 

 as, for want of room, the oars cannot be used in guarding 

 against the surge which washes into them. These hints 

 will not be misplaced if they save those who are desirous 

 of a complete knowledge of Staffa, from the disappoint- 

 ment they must otherwise experience in consequence of 

 the laziness and fraud of the boatmen who ply in the 

 port of Ulva.* 



* The hospitality and generosity of the Highlanders have long been 

 celebrated. But this is, like Apelles, to paint Antigonus in profile only. 

 The extortion practised by them on travellers has been a frequent subject 

 of remark : in the hire of boats, it exceeds that of the men of 

 Deal. It has not been the lot of Dr. Johnson alone in this country 

 to observe, that " that honesty is not greater where elegance is less." 

 This habitual extortion presents an amusing, but not an inexplicable con- 

 trast, to the hospitality which every one who has travelled in this country 

 must also have experienced. The milk is given with the utmost gene- 

 rosity, but if purchased, even from the same individual, ten times the 

 value is required. The unshod horse who has been chased over the 

 mountain till he is wearied, and is brought in at two o'clock, with stir- 

 rups of rope and a halter for a bridle, must be hired for the remainder of 

 that day at a price equal to that of an English hunter fresh for the morn- 

 ing field ; often indeed, superior. That this disposition is frequently the 

 simple result of avarice and fraud is undoubted. But in some cases it 

 *eems merely to arise out of the commercial spirit; overacting itself from 





