76 ACROSS AFRICA. [Chap. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Entry into Ugogo. — Chai-acter of the Wagogo. — Defeat of an Arab Expedition. — 

 Ugogo. — Water Supply. — A Walie. — Wanyamwezi, and their Ingratitude. — The 

 Wagogo. — Extraordinary Ear-rings. — Fantastic Coiffures. — Personal Adornment. 

 — A Struggle for Precedence. — Curiously-formed Trees and Excrescences. — As- 

 tonishing the Natives. — Adopted Fathers. — A Thieving Tribe. — Bombay in a Fog. 

 — A Chilly Morning. — Manufacture of Salt. — Small-pox. 



June, We had now fairly entered Ugogo, and, having heard many 



__]___ wonderful stories of the extortions practiced by the Wagogo, 

 anticipated some difficulty in passing through their country. 



They were reputed to be great thieves, and so overbearing 

 that any insult they inflicted was to be borne without resist- 

 ance. But should a AVagogo be struck, or receive some imagi- 

 nary injury, a fine was exacted ; and, if not immediately paid, 

 the Wagogo, being a brave and warlike race, would attack and 

 plunder the caravan. 



Such was the character we received of them ; and though we 

 found them disposed to be rude and extortionate, they were, in 

 truth, the veriest cowards and poltroons it is possible to con- 

 ceive. Arabs, Wanyamwezi, and others with whom they are 

 jjrincipally brought in contact, approach Ugogo in fear and 

 trembling, apprehensive of being fleeced of half their stores 

 in passing through ; for they are completely dependent on the 

 Wagogo for their supplies of food and water from day to day ; 

 and they, like true cowards, bully and oppress those who are at 

 their mercy, knowing they can offer no resistance. 



The tribute which is levied is not, however, altogether un- 

 just, and would, indeed, be perfectly fair, if conducted on any 

 fixed principles ; for if the Wagogo did not live in the country 

 and keep the watering-places in repair, the paths would be im- 

 passable in the dry season, Mdiicli is always preferred for trav- 

 eling. 



Some years ago an Arab, braver, but not wiser, than his fel- 



