VIII.] A DEN OF THIEVES. 109 



growth, I suddenly came upon a heavy stockade partially cov- August, 

 ered over. It struck me at once that this might be a halt- i*^*^-^- 

 ing- place of the dreaded Ruga -ruga, then hovering about in 

 the neighborhood, and against whom we had been warned. I 

 therefore approached most cautiously, and, seeing no signs of 

 its being tenanted, ventured to the entrance. On looking in, I 

 saw many pots and cooking utensils lying near the still smol- 

 dering hre (which proved that it must have been occupied but 

 a short time previously), as also skins, and well-picked bones of 

 animals, which had doubtless provided the morning meal. 



My suspicions being thus coniirmed, I left as stealthily as I 

 had approached ; and I need hardly say that I did not continue 

 my attempt at making a bag, fearing that the report of tire- 

 arras might have attracted attention, and ended in my being 

 bagged myself. 



I afterward found that this was beyond doubt the den of 

 some Ruga-ruga ; and, had they been at home at the time of 

 my visit, nothing could have saved me from capture, as their in- 

 tentions were decidedly hostile. Indeed, the cause of absence 

 from their domicile was their having gone to the front to lie in 

 wait for the caravan. 



I soon rejoined the caravan, and "we camped at Marwa, 

 respecting which there are some curious superstitions. The 

 camping-place is in the midst of a group of enormous rocks, 

 and water can only be obtained by digging at the base of one 

 of the largest of them. This is supposed to cover the site of a 

 village upon which it fell, destroying every one of the inhabit- 

 ants, and the ghosts of the dead villagers are believed to haunt 

 the place. 



Should the spring be disrespectfully spoken of as " maji " 

 merely — the ordinary word for water — instead of as " marwa," 

 which in different dialects signifies pombe, palm wine, and oth- 

 er kinds of drink ; or should any one w^earing boots pass the 

 spot, or fire a gun in the immediate vicinity, the ghosts at once 

 stop the supply. Upon drawing water, a small present of beads 

 or cloth is customarily thrown in, to propitiate the guardian 

 spirits of the well ; and as I declined to conform to this rule, 

 Bombay, fearing some terrible disaster if the full ceremonies 

 were not complied with, made the offering himself. 



