XIII.] A YOUNG CHIEF. 163 



age, to visit me. He was in a terrible fright, and cried bitterly February, 

 at tlie lirst sight of a white man. But I soon pacified him, and i^*^^- 

 amnsed him Mith pictures in Dallas's " [Natural History," and 

 finally sent him away perfectly happy with some pages of the 

 Illustrated London News which had been used in packing. 



TJgaga was reached on the 5th of February, by a road lead- 

 ing through jungle, and past many villages and plantations, and 

 then descending diagonally the face of a cliff which divided 

 the uplands from the plain of the Malagarazi. Far and wide 

 stretched the green plain, and in the distance in the north were 

 the blue hills of Uliha, while close to the foot of the cliff was 

 Ugaga, in which we halted. 



The mutwale, to my disgust, demanded a heavy toll for our 

 passage over the Malagarazi. The mhongo already exacted at 

 Itambara would, we had been assured, free us from all further 

 demands. Yet the mutwale declared that we had paid only for 

 permission to cross the river, and that he, as lord of the ferry, 

 besides the chief of the canoe-men and various other ofiicials, 

 all expected their fees. Otherwise no canoes whatever would 

 be forthcoming for our service. 



The mutwale was a good-looking young fellow of five-and- 

 twenty, and very civil, though he would do no business on the 

 day of our arrival, and was politely firm on the mhongo ques- 

 tion. When he called on me, I was lying on my bed without 

 boots or stockings, waiting for my bath. I showed him my 

 guns, books, and other curiosities, to occupy his attention ; but 

 in the midst of his examination of these things he suddenly 

 caught hold of my toes and looked at them most carefully, re- 

 marking that my feet were much too white and soft for walk- 

 ing. Then he transferred his attention to my hands, which 

 certainly could not be called white, having been tanned to the 

 color of a dirty dog-skin glove ; but after inspection he arrived 

 at the conclusion that I had done very little work, and there- 

 fore must be an important personage in my own country. 



The mode of salutation here is very ceremonious, and varies 

 according to the ranks of the performers. When two "gran- 

 dees" meet, the junior leans forward, bends his knees, and 

 places the palms of his hands on the ground on each side of his 

 feet, while the senior claps his hands six or seven times. They 



