180 ■ ACROSS AFRICA. [Chap. 



March, ly country witli small clifts and hanging woods, reminding me 

 1874. very much of Mount Edgcumbe, I made for the shore for the 

 purpose of beaching the Betsy, as water was leaking through a 

 considerably hole in her stern, and damaging the cargo. Defects 

 having been made good, we again got under way, and cami^ed 

 near Ugxinya. 



Tiie beauty of the scenery along the shores of the lake re- 

 quires to be seen to be believed. The vivid greens of various 

 shades among the foliage of the trees, the bright-red sandstone 

 eliifs and blue water, formed a combination of color seeming 

 gaudy in description, but which was in reality harmonious in 

 the extreme. 



Birds of various species — white gulls with gray backs and 

 red legs and beaks, long-necked black darters, divers, gray and 

 white kingfishers, and chocolate-colored lish-hawks with white 

 heads and necks, were most numerous; while the occasional 

 snort of a hippopotamus, the sight of the long back of a croco- 

 dile, looking like a half-tide rock, and the jumping of fish, re- 

 minded one that the water as well as the air was thickly pop- 

 ulated. 



During the night I was knocked over by a severe attack of 

 fever, but tried to go on the next day. However, I soon found 

 my head and compass spinning in opposite directions, so was 

 compelled to give in, and camped at Kabongo, a short way south 

 of the Malagarazi, where I remained two days before I was snf- 

 ficiently recovered to take a bearing. 



Some very curious sensations were experienced by me while 

 laid up with this attack. One night I thought I was at least 

 twenty peo})le, all of whom were in j)ain, and that each one had 

 the same feeling as all the rest. Another night the fancies 

 were more distinct, and I experienced a complete sense of dual- 

 ity. I iiliagined that another person, a second self, was lying 

 on the opposite side of the boat, and I was perfectly conscious 

 of every shake of ague and pang of hcai^lache that he suffered. 

 I thought, too, that the tea-pot full of cold tea which had been 

 l^laced on that side of the boat was for his sole benefit ; and 

 when, in my tossing-al)out, T rolled over to that side, I seized 

 the tea-pot and drank like; a whale, and chuckled at the idea of 

 the other thirsty moi'tal having been done out of some of his 



