186 ACROSS AFRICA. [Cil\p. 



March, After sui'veyiug for a moment these dismal ruins, I gathered 



18(4. together what I could under my water-proof, and, putting my 

 head between my knees, sat like a hen on a brood of chickens. 



The liglitning and thunder were almost appalling. One 

 flash struck the water close to the boat, and was so quickly fol- 

 lowed by the thunder-clap that they seemed simultaneous. I 

 was quite stunned by the crash, and at first thought I had been 

 struck, being so dazzled by the glare that my sight did not 

 properly return for more than half an hour. 



The morning was very uncomfortable, as may be supposed, 

 and the men, being rather unnerved, refused to move, because 

 of a little sea being on ; but late in the afternoon we got away, 

 and, passing close under the hills — from which many torrents 

 were falling into the lake — camped in the river Lubugwe, 



On the SOth we were under way early, and passed the small 

 island Ivililo, the river Lufungu, and Has Katimba, where we 

 camped, intending to move again in the afternoon if the weath- 

 er cleared. But a slight swell frightened my brave Jack-tars. 

 They said, " Lake bad, and canoes break again ;" and persuade 

 them to go on I could not. Even the Wajiji, who had lived all 

 their lives by the lake, were quite as bad, for they brought their 

 hire to me, saying, " Let us go back. "We don't want to die." 



What would I not have given for a man-of-war's whaler and 

 crew for six weeks ! I should then have been able to have 

 done something thoroughly satisfactory, instead of creeping in 

 and out of the bays and getting no cross-bearings. 



All the danger we ran arose from the habit of going along 

 almost touching the rocks. They will persist in following this 

 course, and if there is a sudden squall, on shore they go. 

 Their extreme timidity actually brings them into danger, 

 though they can not see it. But it is often noticeable that 

 cowards really run more risks, and come oftener to grief, than 

 those who face things manfully. 



The hills were now getting lower, and running farther back 

 from the lake ; and on the 2Sth we ran between the island of 

 Kabogo and the main-land. 



The strait is about two and a half miles long, and three hun- 

 dred yards wide at the entrance — where there are sand-bars — 

 and widens to a mile and a half in the middle. 



