204 ACROSS AFRICA. [Chap. 



CHAPTEE XVI. 



The Art of Pottery. — My Men grow Bolder. — Akalunga. — The Chief. — A Native 

 Notion of Portugal. — Granaries. — Strange Mutilation by Women. — Ornaments. — 

 The Luwaziwa. — Gorillas. — Hill-side Cultivation. — Spiders. — Mosquitoes, Boils, and 

 Sore Feet. — A Strike. — Hot -water Spring. — Waguhha Hair- dressing. — Idols. — 

 The Lukuga. — Return to Ujiji. — Letters from Home. — My Men indulge Freely. — 

 Arab Opinion of the Lualaba. — Fear of Opposition Traders. — Bombay's Jealousy. 

 — Cost of Cutting the Sod in the Lukuga. — I give Readings. — Arson. — Domestic 

 Jars. — More Orgies. — Off again. 



April, It was with pleasure that I learned, on leaving Kasangalowa, 



1874. QY^ ^}^Q XQth of April— for the purpose of crossing the lake and 

 working northward along the other shore — that there was no 

 camping-place within an easy distance. The men would there- 

 fore be obliged to do a good day's pulling, whether they wished 

 it or not. 



There was trouble in getting away, on account of tingi-tingi, 

 the boats being jammed one hundred yards from land, and the 

 water deep. We had to go backward and forward in small 

 canoes — several of which were capsized, causing more amuse- 

 ment than harm — and then to pole out for some distance. 



The mountains on the south-west were so precipitous as 

 almost to be cliffs ; and many gorges formed by land-slips and 

 water-falls were among the hills. 



We camped on very rough ground, evidently overflowed by 

 streams when in flood ; but a place where, hippopotami had 

 been rolling afforded a smooth spot for my tent. The cliffs 

 were red sandstone on the top, and light-colored granite toward 

 the base. The rains now appeared to be passing, although I 

 still saw showers among the hills and heard occasional thunder, 

 and the nights were cloudy for sights. 



I was much interested at Kisungi by watching a potter at 

 her work. She first pounded with a pestle, such as they use in 

 beating corn, enough earth and water for making one pot, until 

 it formed a perfectly homogeneous mass. Then, putting it on 



