XVn.] A RECEPTION. 223 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Hopeful Prospects. — Ruanda. — Copper. — Bombay's Ingenuity. — An Accident. — Last 

 View of Tanganyika. — Dishonest Fellow - travelers. — Meketo. — A Brutal Slave- 

 dealer. — Dress and Ornaments. — Weapons. — Fish-dealers. — River-side Scenery. — 

 Game. — Skulking Carriers. — Bowl -making. — India - rulaber. — A Trying March. — 

 Fetich Huts. — A Good Samaritan. — My Men want to turn back. — "Making Broth- 

 ers." — An Artist in Oils. — Fearful Imprecations. — Musical Instruments. — Mrs. 

 Pakwanywa. — Perforation of Upper Lips. — Dress. — Tattooing. — Charms. — A Hot 

 Stream. — A Mixed Caravan. 



The cheering hope of getting boats at Nyangwe, and of May, 

 floating down the unknown waters of the Kongo to the West i^'^*- 

 Coast in two or three months, rallied my spirits to the highest 

 pitch, as I started on my first journey west of Tanganyika. 



Syde Mezrui had assured me that he could procure canoes al- 

 most immediately on my arrival at ISTyangwe, as he was friend- 

 ly with chiefs who possessed many. This was, I considered, 

 a great point in his favor when I engaged him as a guide, be- 

 cause none of my men would have followed me west unless ac- 

 companied by some person well acquainted with the road. 



Passing over very steep hills — the last spurs of the mountains 

 of Ugoma, which end abruptly over the lakeland across some 

 small torrents, we reached Puanda, the capital of Waguhha. It 

 is a considerable town, situated on a very fertile, flat, alluvial 

 plain extending from the mountain's of Ugoma to the river Lu- 

 kuga, and intersected by the Lugumba and smaller streams, flow- 

 ing into the lake. 



The populace turned out to stare at me, the crowd forming 

 quite a lane as I passed through the place ; and an unfortunate 

 sheep, getting hemmed in just before me, heralded my approach 

 by a frantic baaing, which gave rather a ludicrous aspect to the 

 scene. 



On leaving the town, I sat down to allow the caravan to over- 

 take me, and then, continuing the march for a short distance, 



