312 ACROSS AFRICA. [Chai-. 



Xovembcr, The dancing, yelling, and drumming were still continued, and, 



^^'^^- indeed, had not ceased when we left on the following day. The 



woman who carried the bride must have worked very hard, for 



I noticed that the skin was actually rubbed off her back and 



shoulders. 



Leaving here, we crossed a plain with a fair amount of cul- 

 tivation, and the river Chankoji, a considerable stream flowing 

 south to the Lovoi, and came upon some rocky hills covered 

 with trees and creepers. 



Through this range we passed by a gap about four hundred 

 yards wide, its precipitous sides composed of enormous masses 

 of gneiss looking like giant walls. In the numerous cracks and 

 crevices creepers and shrubs had taken root, and clothed the 

 massive rocks with a net-work of veixlure. On the other side 

 was some broken country, and then a steep range which joins 

 the Kilwala hills. 



We camped at Mwehu, where the few surviving inhabitants 

 of some destroyed villages were beginning to clear the ground 

 and build temporary huts. 



Soon after our arrival, a thunder-storm, accompanied by vio- 

 lent squalls and torrents of rain, presented a grand sight. Al- 

 though midday, there was little light except that afforded by 

 the vivid and almost continuous streams of electric lire, blue 

 and red, and often forked into three or four branches. Some 

 ffashes lasted an appreciable time, being wide, and having an 

 appearance of rippling like a running stream. The thunder 

 crashed and roared without intermission, and the trees bent to 

 the blast, which threatened every moment to uproot tliem, 

 while the rain was driven before the wind in sheets of water. 

 When this war of the elements had lasted two hours, it sud- 

 denly ceased, the clouds cleared, and the western sun shone 

 brightly on the dripping trees and grass, making them gHsten 

 as though studded witli brilliants. 



Our next iialt was at Kisima, a partially deserted village, and 

 here a violent paroxysm of fever attacked me without warning, 

 but liap])ily departed almost as suddenly as it had come, thanks 

 to liberal doses of Epsom salts and (juinine. It so reduced ray 

 strength, however, that it was with much difficulty I dragged on 

 for a short march the following day — the thermometer at one 



