XXIX.] VALLEY OF THE LUMEJI. 381 



passed on the latter part of the inarch falling into the Kassabe. September, 

 The forests were very line, with a scanty undergrowth of jas- i^'^^- 

 mine and other sweet-scented and flowering shrubs, while the 

 ferns and mosses were exceedingly beautiful. 



On camping, we were soon surrounded by the people of a 

 caravan from Bihe which had halted here. They seemed to 

 look with disdain upon us, who were travel -worn, thin, and 

 mostly clothed in rags of grass-cloth, while they were fat and 

 sleek, and decked out in print shirts, jackets, and red night-caj)s 

 or felt hats. 



This caravan was out buying bees-wax, so I borrowed some 

 from Alvez to exchange with them for cloth. Joao, they said, 

 was at Bihe preparing for another journey to Kasongo's coun- 

 try, having been down to Jenje while Alvez had been away. 



I endeavored to gather some items of news of the outside 

 world from these people ; but they knew nothing of it, rarely 

 going to the sea-coast. The porters for the track between Bihe 

 and Benguela are Bailunda, who never go east of Bihe, and the 

 people of that place only engage for the interior. 



Three more marches, tlie latter part being in a hilly country, 

 brought us to the valley of the Lumeji. We crossed the river 

 where it was fourteen feet wide and six deep, on a rickety 

 bridge, and camped at the village of Chikumbi, a sub-chief of 

 Mona Peho's. Here we remained one day, that Alvez's car- 

 avan might procure provisions for themselves ; but for my 

 men and myself it entailed the endurance of a little extra star- 

 vation. 



There were many cattle about, principally black and white, 

 without humps, and of moderate size ; and although the people 

 had long possessed them, the art of milking had been allowed 

 to remain a mystery. Goats and fowls were plentiful ; but be- 

 ing far too poor to buy any, I contented myself with honey and 

 farinha, the meal made of cassava. 



Chikumbi gave us a most astounding account of the road be- 

 tween Bihe and the coast. He declared it was closed, as also 

 was that to Loanda. Six thousand people, under four traders, 

 were reported to have banded together to attempt to break 

 through, but had been unsuccessful. 



Alvez asserted that he had heard the same story from the 



