XXX.] A CEMETEEY. 399 



I rambled about the town and neighborhood, and visited the October, 

 great fetich place. Here the skulls of all the chiefs whom 1875. 

 Kagnombe had conquered were kept spiked on poles, surround- 

 ed by the heads of leopards, dogs, and jackals. 



Not far from this was the burial-ground of his family, the 

 graves in which all lay east and west. Broken pots and crock- 

 ery were scattered on each, and in the centre was a fetich hut, 

 where offerings of food and drink were placed for the manes of 

 the departed. 



Outside Kagnombe's compound a large tree was pointed out 

 to me as being the usual reception-place for the Portuguese, 

 Here his chair is brought and put nj)on the summit of a small 

 mound, the visitors having to sit on stones or roots at its foot. 

 I was assured that my being allowed to enter his jDrivate in- 

 closures was a mark of high honor, no white man having ever 

 before been admitted. 



Of the two inclosures, the outer one is really his main guard, 

 and all night long men are stationed there on sentry. These 

 guards are also employed to lead the van when Kagnombe en- 

 gages in war, tlie duty of carrying his hat, which plays an im- 

 portant part in action, devolving upon the captain of the guard. 



When a village which it is intended to capture is approached, 

 the hat is thrown over the palisades, and a tremendous rush is 

 made to recover it ; for he who is fortunate in the attempt, and 

 brings it back, is considered the hero of the day, and is reward- 

 ed with gifts of concubines and liquor. 



The following morning, after having dispatched Manoel with 

 farewell messages to Kagnombe, I started for the settlement of 

 Senhor Goncalves, and arrived there after a pleasant walk of a 

 few hours. 



Drawing near to the settlement, I was much impressed by its 

 appearance of neatness and good order, and, on entering, found 

 myself in a well-kept court-yard. In this there were a large 

 store-house and two small dwellings, while a palisade in front 

 divided them from the principal house, which was flanked on 

 one side by a magnificent grove of orange-trees covered with 

 fruit. 



A Spanish mulatto met me, and led the way into the sitting- 

 room, where Senhor Gongalves's two sons and a white man, who 



