XXXL] MISERY AND DISCOMFORT. 405 



had every inclination to take to highway robbery, but lacked October, 

 the necessary power. 1875. 



After a day's halt at Joao's, we started for the coast, aceom- 

 panied by a gang of Bailunda carrying gear belonging to Alvez, 

 and intended for sale at Benguela. It Avas arranged that the 

 head-man of this party should act as my guide, Manoel being 

 interpreter between him and me. 



"We passed Belmont — somewhat inappropriately named, be- 

 ing situated in a hollow — and then over large down-like hills 

 with very little wood, excepting around the villages, which were 

 all shaded by groves of fine trees. 



Belmont is the settlement of Silva Porto — a name well 

 known to African geographers — which had once equaled, if 

 not surpassed, that of Senlior GouQalves ; but its owner having 

 discontinued traveling and settled at Benguela, it was placed 

 under the care of slaves, and had consequently greatly deterio- 

 rated. Its orange-trees had run wild and were unpruned, and 

 that which had formerly been a carefully kept garden was no 

 better than a tangled waste. 



The rains were now beginning to set in regularly, and at our 

 first camp we passed a most miserable night. There was scarce- 

 ly any grass or brush-wood with which the men could hut them- 

 selves, and they were consequently exposed to one continued 

 downpour of cold rain. 



I fared equally badly, for my grass -cloth tent was so thor- 

 oughly worn out and full of holes that the water came through 

 it freely. There was not a dry corner where I could sleep, so I 

 coiled myself up in a space about two feet square, with a piece 

 of mackintosh over my head. 



As day broke, the rain ceased, and we managed to light a fire, 

 and I then gave each man a small nip of the brandy which had 

 been given me by Gongalves. After this we started, and, 

 though wet and miserable -looking, my men were fairly light- 

 hearted. 



Gradually we entered more broken and wooded country, with 

 stony hills showing out here and there. On these, villages 

 were built and encircled by stone -walls and palisades, while 

 others on the bare hills were surrounded by heavy groves of 

 trees, and reminded me much of farms on the Wiltshire doAvns. 



