406 ACROSS AFRICA. [Chap. 



While crossing a level table-land, I saw enormous flocks of 

 birds, and what was supposed to be an extraordinarily large one 

 in rapid inotion was pointed out to me. Tlie object had so 

 curious an appearance that I used my field-glasses to obtain a 

 better view, and then discovered that the dark cloud was caused 

 by the dust and steam rising from a large herd of buffalo gal- 

 loping madly to the eastward. 



On the road we met many up-parties of Bihe people who had 

 been trading with the Bailunda. They were usually rather 

 drunk and abusive, and in some instances attempted to rob my 

 stragglers, so that it required great forbearance and some tact 

 to avoid getting into serious collision with them. They assert- 

 ed that we had no right to be traveling in their country, as we 

 should be the means of opening up the road to other strangers 

 and traders, and so deprive themselves of their monopoly. 



Although these people were thus unfriendly toward us, the 

 chiefs of the villages were kind and civil, and invariably brought 

 us pots of pombe. To have refused this proffered hospitality 

 would have been a dangerous policy, and have lessened the good 

 feeling which existed; but much time was sometimes wasted 

 owing to these halts for refreshment. 



The nights were now constantly rainy, and we had some 

 wretched experiences ; but, being near the end of my journey, 

 I felt inclined to make light of every trouble. And, in addi- 

 tion to being continually wet, we were badly provided with 

 food ; for the people, owing to their constant intercourse with 

 the coast, were overwhelmed with cloth, and wanted only pow- 

 der or aguardiente in exchange for provisions. We had nei- 

 ther of these articles of commerce, and consequently were fre- 

 quently compelled to go hungry. 



On the 18th of October we passed the Kutato, a most ex- 

 traordinary river, forming the boundary between Bailunda and 

 Bihe. 



We crossed by a bridge then under water, the strength of 

 the current being so great that some men were washed olf , and 

 only saved themselves by catching at bushes on the bank. On 

 reaching the other side we found ourselves upon an island, sit- 

 uated among numerous rapids and cascades breaking out from 

 a rocky hill - side. The difficulty of getting across seemed, at 



