xxiv INTRODUCTION 



where he stayed till the autumn. ' Here I took a master 

 of the language and studied the tongue very diligently, 

 recreating myself sometimes at the maill, and sometymes 

 about the towne. ' Here, too, he paid his duty to the 

 Queen of England, * having newly arrived, and going for 

 Paris. ' In the latter part of September, still accompanied 

 by his friend Thicknesse, he left Tours and { travelled 

 towards the more southerne part of France, minding now to 

 shape my course so as I might winter in Italy. ' Journeying 

 southward, partly by road and partly by river, he visited 

 Lyons, Avignon, and Marseilles, whither he wended his 

 way deliciously { thro ' a country sweetely declining to the 

 South and Mediterranean coasts, full of vineyards and olive- 

 yards, orange-trees, myrtils, pomegranads, and the like 

 sweete plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated 



villas as if they were so many heapes of snow dropp'd 



out of the clouds amongst these perennial greenes. ' Taking 

 mules to Cannes, he went by sea to Genoa * having procur'd 

 a bill of health (without which there is no admission at any 

 towne in Italy).' On reaching ' Mongus, now cal'd Monaco' 

 on the route, l we were hastened away, having no time per- 

 mitted us by our avaricious master to go up and see this 

 strong and considerable place. ' 



On Oct. 1 6th., after < much ado and greate perill ' he 

 landed on Italian soil. He was fully prepared to have 

 the most delicious pleasure in this classical land, having 

 already, even during the stormy weather off the coast, 

 * smelt the peculiar joys of Italy in the perfumes of 

 orange, citron, and jassmine flowers for divers leagues 

 seaward. ' 



It would be pleasant to ramble through Italy in Evelyn's 

 company, and to share with him the many enjoyments 

 recorded in his Diary : but space forbids. From Genoa he 

 went to Leghorn and Pisa, from Pisa to Florence, thence 

 to Sienna, and on to Rome. 1 1 came to Rome on the 4th 

 November, 1644, about 5 at night, and being perplexed for 

 a convenient lodging, wandered up and down on horseback, 

 till at last one conducted us to Monsieur Petits, a French- 

 man, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and hav- 

 ing bargained with my host for 20 crownes a moneth, I 



