INTRODUCTION xxv 



caused a good fire to be made in my chamber and went to 

 bed, being so very wet. The next morning (for I was re- 

 solved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted with 

 several persons who had long lived at Rome. ' 



Evelyn's description of the interesting sights he saw in 

 Rome is so good that it might well be perused in place of 

 modern guide-books by those visiting the city. There is a 

 delightful attractiveness about it, in which these up-to-date 

 works are sometimes wanting. But even his youthful 

 energy began to tire, and his keen appetite to become sated 

 with continuous sightseeing. After more than six months 

 of it * we now determined to desist from visiting any more 

 curiosities, except what should happen to come in our way, 

 when my companion Mr. Henshaw or myself should go out 

 to take the aire. ' Then, however, as now for some people, 

 the crowning event of a visit to Rome was to receive the 

 Papal blessing. This Evelyn desired and obtained, although 

 the event is not recorded in his diary with any great enthu- 

 siasm. ( May, 4th. Having seen the entrie of ye ambassa- 

 dor of Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where, by favour of 

 our Cardinal Protector, Frair Barberini, I was admitted into 

 the consistorie, heard the ambassador make his ovation in 

 Latine to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state or throne, 

 and changing two pontifical miters ; after which I was pre- 

 sented to kisse his toe, that is, his embroder'd slipper, two 

 Cardinals holding up his vest and surplice, and then being 

 sufficiently bless'd with his thumb and two fingers for that 

 day, I return'd home to dinner. ' 



He quitted Rome about the middle of May after a sojourn 

 there of seven months, which had occasioned him so small 

 an outlay that he remarked thereon in his Diary. { The 

 bills of exchange I took up from my first entering Italy till 

 I went from Rome amounted but to 616 ducanti di banco^ 

 though I purchas'd many books, pictures, and curiosities. ' 

 Going northwards by Sienna, Leghorn, Lucca, Florence, 

 Bologna, and Ferrara, he reached Venice early in June. 

 Arriving ' extreamly weary and beaten ' with the journey, he 

 went and enjoyed the new luxury of a Turkish bath. This 

 bath did so open my pores that it cost me one of the greatest 

 colds I ever had in my life, for want of necessary caution 



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