PET RABBITS, CAV1ES, AND MICE. 51 



and experienced breeder (Mr. T. J. Hearnden) says: 

 44 I do not believe in breeding Himalayans out-of-doors. 

 I prefer in-door breeding. I have bred them in hutches 

 out-of-doors, but could never get them nearly so dark 

 in marking as those housed in-doors. Be sure you keep 

 them clean, as this is absolutely necessary if you want 

 to be successful in the show pen. Do not be afraid of 

 using plenty of sawdust on the hutch floor; do not, if 

 you can help it, allow any urine to get on to the rabbits' 

 feet, as this is ruinous to their colour." We do not 

 advocate keeping Himalayans in the dark, as some do; 

 but they certainly need a subdued light. And some 

 care is requisite in feeding this breed. Carrots are con- 

 sidered by some not to be suitable. Others oppose soft 

 food. But this, after all, is a matter for individual judg- 

 ment, regulated by circumstances and results. One 

 thing is very certain ; the Himalayan is not a lasting 

 rabbit, so far as its show career is concerned. We want 

 to lay additional stress upon the need for purity of 

 colour in the black points. What is wanted is a deep, 

 rich, lustrous black, not a mahogany, or brownish, or 

 rusty colour. The following is the standard of points 

 as adopted by the Himalayan Rabbit Club: 



Points. 

 Ears Short, tapering, and well set ... ... 15 



Nose mark Even and well up between the eyes ... 15 



Front Feet Long, slender, and markings well up 15 



Hind Feet To correspond, markings well up hocks 25 



(In all four of the above points the black fur 



must be dense.) 



Eyes Bold, bright and pink 5 



Tail Neat and black ... ... ... ... 5 



Shape Neat 5 



Coat Short, fine, and pure white ... ... ... 5 



Weight About five pounds . 5 



Condition 5 



100 



A white, or putty nose is a total disqualification. Dark 

 fur on head or body* except where specified above, 

 incurs a loss of TO points. 



