234 SOEHAKAirPA. 



unwieldy badg^e of oHice is about six feet long, gener- 

 ally made of very gaudy material, and moi-e or less 

 gilded according to the owner's rank. Another servant 

 generally carried a heavy box, from which I concluded 

 that they were tax gatherers ; others again bundles, 

 containing master's best clothes and toilet, — natives, 

 as a rule, indulge in a greater number of servants than 

 Europeans do. 



On my arrival at Soerakarta, the capital of the little 



native state of Solo, I learned that the Emperor was 



going to hold a grand reception within a few days on 



the occasion of the Javanese feast, " Garebeg Besar," 



coinciding with the Mahomedan new year, which 



accounted for the crowded train, as it is the custom 



that His Majesty's subjects come from all parts with 



presents of produce and money. This was a splendid 



opportunity to witness a ceremony I had so much 



heard of. I therefore called at once on the Resident, 



to whom I delivered the Governor-General's letter. 



This dignitary was a very tall and bulky gentleman 



living in considerable state : he not only invited me to 



take part at the Emperor's levee, at which he proposed 



to present me, but also to a grand dejeuner to be given 



afterwards at the Residency to all the notables, 



European as well as native. This latter I, however, 



little cared about ; and, as I wished to retain my inde- 



