TEA-HOUSES OF JAPAN. 321 



foreigners adopting this precautionary measure ; whether 

 still part of their now happily exploded spy system, or 

 really in consequence of numerous attempts at assassina- 

 tion, I could not satisfactorily ascertain, for everything 

 seemed quiet enough, and the people showed the 

 greatest respect for Europeans. 



The hotel, at which I had been recommended to stop, 

 was kept by a black American, who not only made 

 me very comfortable, but also acted as guide during 

 my stay in the capital. The house was roomy and well 

 situated near the Hammagotin, a garden belonging to 

 an imperial summer palace, and not far from the bay. 

 Here also is the college where young Japan is taught 

 European languages and modern science. The Mikado 

 himself, then thirteen years old, was said to be learning 

 German. 



Amongst the peculiar institutions of Japan are the 

 tea-houses. Of these, however, there are two kinds, 

 which must not be confounded ; the one, called tscha- 

 jas, takes the place of a French cafe, and is to be found 

 at intervals along the high road, furnishing refresh- 

 ment and repose to travellers. The other, the djoro- 

 Jas, is a place where amusement is provided for men in 

 the shape of dancing, music, feasting, etc. These 

 establishments, confined to a separate quarter of the 



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