RIVERS AND CANALS. 339 



another parting look at the place, — this time by boat. 

 Accompanied by my dusky host, but minus the armed 

 Yakonins, we sailed in and out through the intricate 

 passages of river and canals, spanned by innumerable 

 bridges, mostly of very light construction ; and what 

 astonished me most were the lively scenes I encountered 

 on the water, possibly owing to the absence of spy and 

 soldier. Here we passed hundreds of boats with laugh- 

 ing crews, as often rowed by the weaker sex as by men ; 

 and tea-houses there were in plenty along the banks. 

 These disappeared as we approached the inner city, 

 and soon we passed long lines of walls with imposing 

 gateways appertaining to Dainios' residences, descend- 

 ing to the river's edge by broad flights of stone steps, — 

 many of these had at some time or other been the 

 theatre of dark and adventurous deeds. Many a 

 prince within these gates had, in times gone by, felt 

 himself compelled to perform hara-kiru, or disem- 

 bowelling, to save his honour and that of his family, — 

 a curious custom, now rarely, if ever, practised. The 

 victim on that grave occasion generally gave a feast, 

 assembling all his relations and friends around him, 

 and after the repast they would adjourn to the hall, or 

 principal room, where he would explain the circum- 

 stances that led him to the step, handing over his 

 testament, and taking leave of all present. The 



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