SECT. VIII. OF PLANTING. 107 



be sweet and nourishing ; and therefore if not na- 

 turally so, it is to be improved by art and labour. 

 Tillage or breaking up a soil, to expose it to the at- 

 mosphere, is of much benefit. See article Soil, in 

 the Formation of a Garden. Sect. 3. 



If nothing more can be done at the present, at 

 least make the ground fairly good where the tree is 

 to be set. Two or three barrows of fresh earth, if 

 of a good quality, is far preferable to dung ; but if 

 the soil really needs manure, let it be well incorpo- 

 rated by the spade ; and work some rotten dung in 

 deep, below the roots, which will be properly con- 

 sumed before the new roots reach it; much how- 

 ever must not be used. 



In the case of only making the soil good for the 

 present, the first opportunity, (or at least before the 

 roots spread far) should be taken to extend the benefit 

 as far as may be, even to several feet round, and let 

 this work be done deep enough, or as low as the 

 part made good for first planting, i. e. two feet, or 

 as near upon it as the case will allow. In a few 

 years this attention should be extended (in bad soils) 

 to where it may be thought possible for the roots to 

 have reached. For want of this, a tree sometimes 

 fails when just come to its full size and for bearing. 

 When roots reach a weak, ill-conditioned soil, the 

 tree must fail; and it should be remembered, that 

 the extreme branches of the root are what chiefly 

 nourish a tree, and not those about the stem. 



Fruit trees (though they like a rather strong soil) 

 will not prosper in a cold clay ; but in a soil that is 

 tolerable above, they may be planted, by improving, 

 or raising, and cautiously avoiding going into the 

 clay. Some persons have laid flat stones, or tiles, 

 below the root to a considerable distance, which per- 

 haps may answer; bat it seems advisable only to do 

 4t about &Jbot square, (or a little more) as this 



